Blades for a slider?

[Mark e Kessler]

Yes, my version. I cut down the kreg flip stops, here are a few more, let me know if you need more.

if you dig around on my instagram page i think there are some videos of me using it. https://www.instagram.com/kessler_woodworks/?hl=en

Mark, I like this jig, is it your own version of the Fritz and Franz? Do you have any more pics of it?

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[David Buchhauser]

Here is an excellent video showing how to make the F & F slider jig. I basically patterned the one I build after this one.
David

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0PyFjtSHrE

Fritz and Franz Slider Jig.jpg

[Jeff Monson]

Yes, my version. I cut down the kreg flip stops, here are a few more, let me know if you need more.

if you dig around on my instagram page i think there are some videos of me using it. https://www.instagram.com/kessler_woodworks/?hl=en

Thank you! I plan on making a set very similar, I have some leftover Kreg flipstock track that will work just fine!

[Bryan Hunt]

I have the 48 tooth WW II and Forrest Duraline Hi-A/T 12” x 80 tooth blade for sheet goods.

What does the Hi-A/T do for you over the regular blade?

[Jim Becker]

What does the Hi-A/T do for you over the regular blade?

It's tooth pattern/design is optimized for cleanly cutting the veneers on sheet goods. WW-II does a great job, but for "hardcore" veneer plywood cutting, a design-for-purpose blade is a good idea.

[Bryan Hunt]

Thank you everyone for your input. I have a pretty good idea on what to buy now.

[Pat Rice]

Here is Forrest description: DURALINE HI-A/T saw blades are designed for chipless cutting of two-sided melamine (MCP board), vinyl, polyester, kortron and veneer plywood. No scoring blade needed! These blades are made with double-hard C-4 submicron carbide for longer life between sharpenings.

Recommended for thin, low pressure, two-sided laminates, plywood and fine cross cutting on all woods. For thin veneers on flakeboard - fire-retardant, laminated (1 or 2 sided), masonite, hard board, fibre board, etc. Also for plywood - veneered, lumbercore, glue-ups, hard and soft woods, chemically impregnated, etc.

The DURALINE HI-A/T eliminates the need for a small scoring saw blade on table saw work. The 40° points slice through thin bottom layers with no tears or chips. Reduced yearly sharpening costs - Less machine downtime.

My experience is it performs as describe

[Mark e Kessler]

I had one on my ts but to say it eliminates the need for a scoring blade is straight up marketing bs, it does perform well and is probably worth it if you do not have a saw with scoring but I found it degraded quickly, once even a little bit dull and it will chip that was my experience but I was using it in a commercial environment with employees so who knows how well it was taken care of plus it was loud ah...

Also if you have a saw with scoring it should be used when needed, not use a blade that claims you don’t need one. 48atb - 60atb with scoring performs well, if i was paranoid then maybe a TCG for HPL and/or Melamine.


Mark K


but for what ever reason it was unbelievably loud

Here is Forrest description: DURALINE HI-A/T saw blades are designed for chipless cutting of two-sided melamine (MCP board), vinyl, polyester, kortron and veneer plywood. No scoring blade needed! These blades are made with double-hard C-4 submicron carbide for longer life between sharpenings.

Recommended for thin, low pressure, two-sided laminates, plywood and fine cross cutting on all woods. For thin veneers on flakeboard - fire-retardant, laminated (1 or 2 sided), masonite, hard board, fibre board, etc. Also for plywood - veneered, lumbercore, glue-ups, hard and soft woods, chemically impregnated, etc.

The DURALINE HI-A/T eliminates the need for a small scoring saw blade on table saw work. The 40° points slice through thin bottom layers with no tears or chips. Reduced yearly sharpening costs - Less machine downtime.

My experience is it performs as describe

[Jim Becker]

For the largest part of the market of folks who don't have scoring blades, the HI-A/T is a nice solution to cut sheet goods with at least minimal tearing. I do agree that if one has a scoring blade, the end result should be better. My scoring blade is a good reason why I can "get away with" using the WW-II 48T nearly full time, honestly.