I'm the original owner of a mid 90's Powermatic 66. It also has a melamine extension table with a Jessum router lift. Works fine, but I'm wondering about selling it and going with a Saw Stop. Ideas?
I'm the original owner of a mid 90's Powermatic 66. It also has a melamine extension table with a Jessum router lift. Works fine, but I'm wondering about selling it and going with a Saw Stop. Ideas?
I have a SS PCS, and chose it for it's build quality and functionality rather than the blade brake. It's just a nice bonus. In my opinion, having a good riving knife & guard are a more important safety feature than the brake. Changing out the guard & riving knife takes just a few seconds & is tooless. Fit & finish are top notch. Well, except for the extension table, which is really low rent. You'd definitely want to build a better one to support the router lift. Do not get the 'premium' fence cause it is anything but. The T-glide is the one to get.
I also have a SS PCS and I am pretty happy with it. The safety equipment was my primary reason to spend the most I have ever spent on a tool to get it. The safety system also adds some baggage from an operation standpoint to the extent I keep the manual in the shop for when it starts doing something goofy. But that is pretty rare, usually it operates without nonsense. My only real complaint is the riving knife. It is OK for a thin kerf blade but too thin IMHO for a regular kerf blade which is what I normally use. And they do not offer one about 0.1 inch thick like I think is appropriate. As a result, I have had the saw overload when the board pinched the blade I was cutting. A wedge in the kerf solved it but it never would have happened with a thicker riving knife.
There are many great things. Squaring the top to the blade isn't bad. The rip fence is great (Bisemeyer type, the aluminum did not impress). The height adjustment is quick. The angle requires many rotations of the wheel. Stops are adjustable. Miter slots are correctly machined.
I've never used a 66 so I don't really know how they compare. My guess is the blade brake system if the only big advantage of the SS.
Here we go: You don't mention what SS model you're looking at so I'll assume PCS or ICS. Unless you feel you must have the brake you will gain 0 in terms of quality or capability. IMHO, money pi$$ed down the drain.
This coming from someone who used and maintained 2 ICS and 1 PCS simultaneously for the better part of a decade. Multiple brake misfires on the ICS's, replaced both ICS switches (one at 4 years and one at 9), PCS had excessive arbor runout, non existent dust collection capability on all, PCS trunnion issues, false door interlock codes, just to name a few problems. The extension table is also a joke for the money. The riving knife is a nice feature and quick to switch out, I will give them that.
The brake can save your fingers. Otherwise, I assume they're fairly similar.
I'm attached to my fingers so I bought a SS (so they'll stay that way).
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
For reference, I own an early 90's 3 HP Unisaw that I bought new, with 52" Unifence.
I wouldn't dream of wasting the $$$$ necessary for me to switch to a SS.
Too many other things for which I'd much rather spend $$
-- Andy - Arlington TX
Here we go again. Those who hate the SawStop and those that like it. I have heard and read ALL the arguments too many times.
I have a PCS and like it. It is a solid well built saw.
Last edited by Larry Frank; 04-10-2020 at 8:45 PM.
I have a SS PCS and I love it. It is a very high quality saw with an excellent safety feature. I am also a pretty mature guy [79+years] and I want to keep all my current digets.
I would need a very compelling reason to exchange what are essentially the same level of tool (assuming you mean the higher end SS vs the PM66) They are both great saws and the only real differentiator is the safety device on the SS. If that's important to you...go for it. Just keep in mind about what the realistic price will be for selling your PM66. Even if it's pristine...it's still a used saw.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
As one to never refuse a suggestion from my wife to buy a new tool I jumped at the opportunity and purchased a SawStop ICS with a 5hp single phase motor. After about a year of ownership I find it doesn't cut wood any better than my previous Unisaw or Jet cabinet saws. However I think the ICS version is a bit more stout. I haven't experienced any false trips or problems with the saw and it has served me well. SawStop customer service has been good albeit lacking some technical knowledge about their product at times. If it has given my wife some piece of mind and has potentially saved a few of my digits I think it was money well spent. Now if my wife would see a new John Deere tractor in a similar light.
The ICS will be a little heavier build than the PM and the PCS a little less. Buy for the safety, not the build. I use a feeder on my old Whitney so my fingers stay clear. DaveDSCN3689.jpg
If I could buy an insurance policy that would replace any digits lost on a table saw for a couple of grand, it would be a no brainer for me. I push wood through saws daily for a living, so my calculated risk and my exposure are high. That's how I made the calculation to go with a SawStop. I can't see any other real advantage.
Yeah, if you have employees you pretty much have to have a SawStop. I can see the attorney questioning a shop owner in a trial: "You mean to say that you were aware of a product that would have saved my client's fingers and you were too cheap to provide it for your employees?"
I also expect insurance companies may charge higher premiums or refuse coverage unless you provide flesh detection technology on your table saws.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.