First Table Saw Observations/Question

[Jacob Atwell]

Finally got my 3 hp Saw Stop assembled and outlet ran yesterday. Went with the ICS base and just applied the promotion towards the purchase of it. The ICS base is great. Moving the saw around is a breeze. As advertised, the packaging and directions were great. I did spend a fairly large amount of time trying to get the extension wings right. I’d say they are not perfect, but I think they are close enough. This is my first time ever using a table saw, so obviously I know next to nothing. One thing I noticed was I feel like I would be a little more comfortable if I could see the cut. With the blade guard on it is kind of tough to see the blade. Seems obvious that is safer to use with the blade guard installed, and maybe it will just take some getting used to. I am still trying to figure out shop layout and I was wondering what most people feel is adequate space to the left of the blade. I know it depends on what you are using the saw for, but just looking for some opinions.

[glenn bradley]

One thing I noticed was I feel like I would be a little more comfortable if I could see the cut.

This is common with new tablesaw users. Seeing the cut is of no importance so you should let go of that desire early on. The blade is exactly where it is, it is not going to shift left or right, it simply spins on the plane you have it set on. A tablesaw is a straight line cutting machine that relies on a flat table, a true miter gauge or fence and well milled material to be cut. All these planes of travel converge to create the feed path. Deviation from this feed path leads to kickback which leads to injuries.

New users tend to think they can correct the cut if they start to wander off line. If your material can wander something is horribly wrong and you want to address that, not try to use a tablesaw like a bandsaw . The fence, miter slots and blade to table alignment are all there to guide your material past the blade in a straight line. Do not try to circumvent this. Granted there are all sorts of tricks, tips and 'tablesaw magic' that we do as we become more familiar with all the things a tablesaw can do. None of these involve a need to see the cut. We may inspect the result of a cut, adjust and repeat an operation; that is pretty normal as one gets used to tablesaw work.

Watch videos of professional shops. It's all about the setup and preparation. Once the cut is started the material simply moves through the cut. No adjustments half way through and no fine tuning of feed path during the operation. That road leads to "accidents".

[Matt Day]

Wish my first saw was a SS! Enjoy the new saw.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Congrats, I bought my first tablesaw about 4 years ago and it was a Sawstop PCS.

I use a homemade crosscut sled about 90% of the time when cross cutting and always push sticks when ripping.

I ditched the blade guard pretty early and haven't felt intimidated by the saw.

My hands never get near the red saw throat plate, so they are always well away from the blade.

After about 2 months, I did swap out the Sawstop blade for a Forrest WWII combo blade and I love that. I also use a Forrest 20T 3/32" Rip blade when I have a lot of wood to rip.

I bought a couple of Sawstop table inserts so I could make a Zero Clearance Inserts (ZCI) for each blade.


I just received the Infinity Tools throat plate with multiple ZCI inserts yesterday, haven't had chance to set this up yet.

Have fun with it.

[michael langman]

This is common with new tablesaw users. Seeing the cut is of no importance so you should let go of that desire early on. The blade is exactly where it is, it is not going to shift left or right, it simply spins on the plane you have it set on. A tablesaw is a straight line cutting machine that relies on a flat table, a true miter gauge or fence and well milled material to be cut. All these planes of travel converge to create the feed path. Deviation from this feed path leads to kickback which leads to injuries.

New users tend to think they can correct the cut if they start to wander off line. If your material can wander something is horribly wrong and you want to address that, not try to use a tablesaw like a bandsaw . The fence, miter slots and blade to table alignment are all there to guide your material past the blade in a straight line. Do not try to circumvent this. Granted there are all sorts of tricks, tips and 'tablesaw magic' that we do as we become more familiar with all the things a tablesaw can do. None of these involve a need to see the cut. We may inspect the result of a cut, adjust and repeat an operation; that is pretty normal as one gets used to tablesaw work.

Watch videos of professional shops. It's all about the setup and preparation. Once the cut is started the material simply moves through the cut. No adjustments half way through and no fine tuning of feed path during the operation. That road leads to "accidents".

Excellent post Glen. You should have been a shop teacher.

[Rod Sheridan]

+10 for Glenn Bradley's comment, there's nothing to see in there, and many saws have metal guards that you can't see through. The saw is cutting whether you can see it or not.

Never run the saw without a guard, if you're not able to perform an operation with the guard on, there are 2 possible reasons;

1) you're using the wrong guard (I have 3 for my saw)

2) you're using the wrong machine (for example you should be using a shaper or a router table).

Here's a good primer on using a saw, note the short rip fence for solid wood, you can make one for yourself by clamping a piece of MDF to your fence.

https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf

Regards, Rod.

[Carroll Courtney]

Eyes focus on keeping board up against the fence,congrats you lucky dog. Post some pics if you get chance

[Dave Mills]

Congrats Jacob on the new saw. I got my PCS about 6 months ago, and it is a fantastic saw. I would recommend right away getting a couple push pads, and maybe the GRRipper gizmo, and putting a crosscut sled early on your list of projects to make. I'm no expert, so I won't preach other than to mention a common point - if it doesn't feel safe, don't do it. That's something I heard early on and still keep it in mind all the time.

You asked about space to the left of the blade. I have around 3ft to the left of the saw's table top. The worst case situation is when trying to push pieces of plywood through.

[Jacob Atwell]

I appreciate it guys! I went back and forth for a long time, and even asked you all for help making the decision. I finally just bit the bullet, and now I’m looking forward to a long long time of enjoyment from this machine. All you all have said about the blade guard makes sense, and I kind of figured I just need to get used to it. Making myself a crosscut sled and some push sticks are both on the list of things to do soon.

[ChrisA Edwards]

If you keep the guard on, forget the crosscut sled, the two don't really work together.

If you stick with the guard, consider getting an Incra 1000HD miter gauge. I have one, love it, but only really use for angled cuts.

Watch some of this guys, William Ng, videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ

[Lee Schierer]

One thing I noticed was I feel like I would be a little more comfortable if I could see the cut. With the blade guard on it is kind of tough to see the blade.

I can understand the question. You want to cut off a precise length from the end of a longer board, so you mark the cut line, on the edge of the board but then you can't see the mark in relation to the edge of the blade. One thing you could try would be to apply a strip of masking tape from the edge of the throat plate to the front edge of the table. Place a piece of scrap against your miter gauge, hold it tight to the miter gauge and cut off the end and turn off the saw. Pull the piece back while holding it in place against the miter gauge. Once it clears the guard place a sharp pencil against the end of the board you cut and draw a line on the masking tape all the way back. Move the miter gauge to the other side and repeat the process. Now you have two exact marks where the edge of the blade will be and you should be able to align your cut mark with either one of them depending upon which side of the blade the intended cut is to be made.

[Scott Bernstein]

I use a floating blade guard. It is clear acrylic so I can see through it, while still keeping me away from the blade. One can purchase one for pretty much any table saw, or make one. I suppose the only thing you couldn't really do with a guard like this is cutting tenons on long pieces; but that is not an operation I do on the table saw.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

If you keep the guard on, forget the crosscut sled, the two don't really work together.

Actually you can.

I use the blade guard for all cuts except the rare partial cuts (non cut through).

I made a sledge, designed to maintain the blade guard when at use, many years ago and its second edition I made four years ago. Although I haven´t see it at anyplace I am sure this idea isn´t original.

20200427_091444.jpg
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To rip cut narrow strips I use another jig (actually a home made version of some existent industrial gadnet):

20200427_091539.jpg20200427_091758.jpg

...so, virtually, I can cut always with the blade guard on.

I think you can do the same for a bigger saw. You can also make such gig better constructed and heavier duty.

If you stick with the guard, consider getting an Incra 1000HD miter gauge. I have one, love it, but only really use for angled cuts.

Watch some of this guys, William Ng, videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ

IMO it is the best video for sledge construction in the internet. For this last version of "my" gig, actually I used five cut method presented by him.