Delta 50-760 DC - Open up motor / impeller housing

[Steve Wurster]

Has anyone opened up the motor / impeller housing on a Delta 50-760 DC? Possibly to replace the motor or the impeller? I'm not looking to do either of those, but I am thinking of rotating the switch location by 90 degrees.

As it stands right now, the switch faces to the "right" in my setup, as shown below. I would like to rotate this position clockwise so that the switch faces "front" as much as possible. That will make it easier for me to reach the switch from either the left or right side of the unit.

50-760.jpg

It should be just a matter of removing those bolts, turning the whole assembly clockwise, and tightening those bolts back up. But I'm pretty sure there's a gasket under that flange there, and I don't know if that will get ruined when I lift up the assembly. I was hoping somebody on here has at least opened this up before me and could provide some info.

Thanks,
Steve

[Bill Dufour]

I would leave the switch alone and on all the time. Mount a standard wall switch in a box conveniently located with a socket attached to plug the dc into. This is just a 120V motor isn't it?
The female end can be in a different box or a short cord hanging from the switchbox with a receptacle attached. Or be real lazy and use a premade powerbar. Just watch the amp ratings.
Bil lD

[Bill Dufour]

When I assembled mine I made a new gasket from a cheap yoga mat. the old one tore when it was removed. Different DC maker, but still a quality make, so I expect yours will tear also.
Yoga mats also make nice gaskets under dc flange fitting etc.
Bill D

[Jamie Buxton]

You can always take the bolts out, and try to lift the motor. If it comes up easily, you’re good. If it feels stuck, then you have a decision to make.

[Doug Garson]

Rotating the motor should not be difficult, the only issue is whether the gasket survives but it would be easy to make a new one or just seal it with silicone caulking. My solution is to mount a switch in a surface mount electrical box with a magnet so I can stick it wherever I want. The box is wired into the motor box (original switch removed) with a 10ft cable (same length as the 4" hose on the DC) so I can take it to the machine.
DC switch.jpg

[Steve Wurster]

You can always take the bolts out, and try to lift the motor. If it comes up easily, you’re good. If it feels stuck, then you have a decision to make.

That's a good point; I will definitely try that first.

I would leave the switch alone and on all the time. Mount a standard wall switch in a box conveniently located with a socket attached to plug the dc into. This is just a 120V motor isn't it? The female end can be in a different box or a short cord hanging from the switchbox with a receptacle attached. Or be real lazy and use a premade powerbar. Just watch the amp ratings.

Rotating the motor should not be difficult, the only issue is whether the gasket survives but it would be easy to make a new one or just seal it with silicone caulking. My solution is to mount a switch in a surface mount electrical box with a magnet so I can stick it wherever I want. The box is wired into the motor box (original switch removed) with a 10ft cable (same length as the 4" hose on the DC) so I can take it to the machine.

Great ideas, gentlemen. If I can't remove the motor without damaging the gasket then I will go this route. I don't think I have the proper switch or outlet in the house at the moment, but those are easy enough to order. Doug's magnet idea is fantastic, especially since I could just leave the switch "stuck" to the front of the DC unit all the time, effectively substituting for me rotating the motor itself.

[Bill Dufour]

I do not know but the nuts on the impeller housing may be just nuts. Hopefully they are welded on or, you may have to take the impeller off the motor shaft to get a wrench in there to reinstall them. With my luck they would all come out easy except the last one would slip and I would have to remove the impeller because of that one nut. I assume easy enough to take apart but lining it up and getting the nuts to engage may be hard.
On my heavier duty Murphy Rodgers the nuts were welded on or maybe the volute was thick enough to be threaded by itself with a extra welded on support ring/plate. I do not remember exactly. I know it was not loose nuts.
Bill D

[Steve Wurster]

Turns out those bolts are indeed just bolts; the main DC body is threaded. And the gasket is stuck to the main body but not to the motor housing. I removed the bolts, and the motor housing moved quite easily. I turned it the way I wanted, reattached the bolts, and fired it up; works a charm. Now I just have to retrain my muscle memory to reach for the front of the motor instead of the right when going to turn on the DC.

50-760-2.jpg

[Bruce Wrenn]

Now I just have to retrain my muscle memory to reach for the front of the motor instead of the right when going to turn on the DC.

50-760-2.jpg

Don't worry, the week before DC dies, you will finally have the necessary muscle memory. Took me over two years when I moved switch on TS, two inches to the left on a new fence