Design help on shop addition

[Wes Billups]

I'm not sure if I'm putting this post in the correct location, so please move if needed.

I've gotten permission from the wife to do a lean-to addition on the side of my shop. I'm struggling with the design portion of what would be easiest and look best in regards to the construction and trim details. I'd like to get everyone's input and if you have examples please do post to this thread.

Here's what the front of the shop looked like during construction so you all have an idea of the overall building style.
033.JPG

Here is the side that the addition will go on. It'll run pretty much the whole length of the building but not all of it will be enclosed with walls.
IMG_6564.jpg

Here are rough sketches showing my thoughts on the roof design.

Option 1:
Option 1.jpg
This should be the easiest to construct as it only involves tying into the soffit and I can leave the fascia and gutter untouched. Down side is it does limit headroom on the addition and it's a pretty shallow slope.

Option 2:
Option 2.jpg
This one give a little more slope but comes with complication of tying the new roof into the existing one.

Option 3:
Option 3.jpg
From my sketches this looks the best and give me the highest pitch but comes at a cost of having to remove some of the existing roof shingles and tie in. It also requires the gutter to be removed and cut down/replaced in multiple sections.

Here is an example I found via my numerous searches.
Shop Example 1.JPG

If anyone has there own examples please post a picture. I'd be very interested in detailed pictures of the addition to roof connection as this trim detail is what has me the most stumped.

Thank you,
Wes

[Jim Becker]

From a visual perspective as well as considering headroom, options 2 and 3 are preferable with option 3 nicest to my eyes, but option 1 isn't as bad as you might think at first relative to headroom because, well...header...which if you raise it up complicates your build. What is the planned use for the portion of the addition that will actually be enclosed/conditioned shop space? Will the existing wall still exist but with opening/door or will the wall be removed?

[Wes Billups]

This addition will purely be storage of lawn equipment, skid steer + attachments, and possible wood overflow. The existing structure will not be penetrated other than the tie-in so the build should be pretty simple. I'm going to construct it as if it's just a post & beam style and then enclose at least the first 24' with walls or doors to enable access. The back portion will remain open for two reasons: that's where I'll store the Bobcat attachments but also leave open access to the electric meter which is attached to the side of my shop.

[Bill Dufour]

I would consider dropping the roof line and adding clerestory windows to the main building for venting and light. Probably not enough height to really pull this off.
Bill D

Some picture I found of a barn with clerestory windows. I do like the porch roof over the garage doors.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/569494315349457931/

[james glenn]

Option #1 is lease intrusive of the existing structure and probably easiest to construct.

Option #2 always looks like what we call a "half & half" meaning half committed and half done.

Option #3 is aesthetically pleasing and looks "original", but will involve new shingles, opening up the roof structure to tie in if done properly.

I vote for #3 despite the amount of work, it looks like it was meant to be there all along. plus it will reduce the rafter size with more pitch when looking at the snow drift loads.

[Steve Mathews]

The roof pitch on the main structure should allow you to construct an almost full length dormer on either side and extend it the additional width you want. The benefit of the dormer is you can add a mezzanine under the dormer for storage. If there's already a second floor or attic to the structure the dormer just increases useful floor space. This is essentially what is done with my shop.

[Tom M King]

I've built such for 46 years, for a living. I'd do 3, with a slight variation. Cut the roof sheathing away, in a plane in line with the interior wall framing. Set the new rafters on the wall, fastened to the existing rafters. Building onto an existing wall greatly simplifies building an addition. This might end up bringing that 3.8 slope up a little. You can decide when you open it up how high you want to carry this, but I'd start with a section like that, to start with. If you have scaffolding set up, so you're at a comfortable working height for that transition, it will make it a Lot easier to do what you want to. Don't even think about doing it off a ladder.

You could go a little higher with the slope by sitting the new rafters on top of the old ones, as in your 3rd version, but I'm not sure it would be worth the extra effort to gain an inch of slope.

If you carefully pull nails out of a row of shingles, that is up from the slope change a little bit, they can hinge on the nails from the row above, and be nailed back down in place. You also need to carefully break the sealed down bond, before pulling those nails.

[Steve Mathews]

Here's a pic of my shop with a dormer on one side. I'll be expanding the width about 20 ft. The roof will be a little lower, possibly for clerestory type windows, but the pitch will be the same. The block half wall and horse stalls will be removed at that time.
Winter 002.jpg