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Thread: Table Saw Review Griz 1023SL

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,577

    additional tips

    Well written John. I've had a 1023 since about 1996 though it doesn't have anywhere near the miles that Steve & Keiths saw have on them. My wings came separate from the rest of the saw as is the case now. I removed them from the carton. Got the saw out of its' styrofoam cocoon. I removed the top(watch where the shims go!) and also removed the motor. Removing the motor removed probably 75 lbs. from the cabinet, and it was pretty easy. At that point, the cabinet was just the sheet metal, cast iron trunions and adjustment mechanism. It probably weighed less than 100 lbs. at that point. 2 of us carried it down the steps no problem.

    To reassemble, reinstall the motor, replace the wiring, reattach the center portion of the top, find 2 straight 2X4's and 4 clamps. Put the 2 X4's on the center portion of the top and clamp in place. Then I could clamp the CI wings to the 2X4 to hold them til I got the bolts started. At the point it was just a matter of tweaking everything. It wasn't all that hard and the results were well worth it.

    The cabinet saw has a footprint not larger than a contractor saw(probably smaller with the internal motor), better dust collection, easier adjustment and holds its' adjustment better, and is a joy to use. Hope someone finds this useful.

    Curt

  2. #17
    john, very well written review! enjoy your new toy.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South of Houston
    Posts
    96
    Well, I was shoping for a new TS and found this review.
    I realize this is old but I figured this would give you time to give us a follow up on how your saw has held up.

    I realize the new saws have riving knives but still value your input.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    123
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by john whittaker View Post
    I ordered a new blade with the saw and this so far is my only disappointment. The blade (Oldham) has a wobble in it. (About 0.012") Not sure if this is within normal specs but I don't want a blade this far out.
    My tablesaw book says to replace any blade with more than 0.012 runout. I was worried cause my WWII was showing like .010-.011! I later realized that I had the arbor washer on backwards.... so you might want to give that a try.

  5. #20
    Brad,

    I have had my 1023SL for several years now and although I am only barely a weekend woodworker, I really like it. Solid machine, little to no vibration, proud to have it as the center piece of my shop! I installed my old Beisemeyer fence (longer rails) and use the stock splitter / guard all the time. Its not terribly difficult to remove and reinstall it, and when I am in the shop, I rarely am 'in a hurry' to do anything, thats the reason I am down there !

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Pittsford, NY
    Posts
    166
    For all you 1023 owners, I highly recommend adding a kick stop to the Griz (or any saw for that matter).

    There are a couple holes in the rail just above the switch that make it fairly easy to attach one. I just used a door hinge and a small block of wood to attach it.

    See the picture below . . .

    BTW, I've had mine for almost 3 years and have had no issues. Just light hobby use though.

    -Brian
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Brian D Anderson; 03-16-2010 at 8:21 AM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South of Houston
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian D Anderson View Post
    For all you 1023 owners, I highly recommend adding a kick stop to the Griz (or any saw for that matter).

    There are a couple holes in the rail just above the switch that make it fairly easy to attach one. I just used a door hinge and a small block of wood to attach it.

    See the picture below . . .

    BTW, I've had mine for almost 3 years and have had no issues. Just light hobby use though.

    -Brian
    Wow!!! Now that is some TS/RT real estate. And those floors are gorgeous too. I wish I had room for such a large work surface. You have done a nice job of making your TS/RT a nice place to work. The storage space looks ample. Thanks for sharing.

    Questions. It looks like you can still roll it around the shop but exactly how did you tie your TS, RT, and extension to the TS? Is it on one large mobile base?
    Last edited by Brad Westcott; 03-16-2010 at 9:30 AM.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Pittsford, NY
    Posts
    166
    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Westcott View Post
    Wow!!! Now that is some TS/RT real estate. And those floors are gorgeous too. I wish I had room for such a large work surface. You have done a nice job of making your TS/RT a nice place to work. The storage space looks ample. Thanks for sharing.

    Questions. It looks like you can still roll it around the shop but exactly how did you tie your TS, RT, and extension to the TS? Is it on one large mobile base?
    Don't let the floors fool you . . . they're relatively cheap laminate.

    I originally thought I'd have to move my saw around, so I put it on the mobile base when I brought it home. As it turns out, I don't really move it at all, so I didn't make my outfeed table mobile, or the RT cabinet. The RT cabinet isn't actually attached at all. The top is bolted into the wing, and the cabinet is kind of floating underneath. It has leg levelers that I just raised until the top of the cabinet touched the table top. There are a few more pictures here if you're interested: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/15152

    -Brian

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bellingham, Washington
    Posts
    1,149
    Thanks for the review John. I have a new 1023RLX on order to replace my Jet cabinet saw that was killed in a collision. The shipping date isn't until the middle of May, but I like the addition of riving knife and shrouded blade dust collection.

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