Top for Dedicated Finishing Bench?

[Paul Heely]

I normally hang out in the turners forum, but thought the WorkShops forum might be a better place for this. I'm looking at building a dedicated carving and finishing bench. What I'm searching for is ideas on finishing the top of the bench off. On my other bench, and I don't do flat work at all, I have a piece of replaceable hardboard. For the new bench I'm looking for something that will withstand different finishes and clean up easily, and also resist heat. The types of finishes I use range from the typical oil-based Watco to alcohol and acrylic airbrushing. I also use various spray paints and finishes and would like to do some burning, so want something that's also heat resistant.

I've found through McMaster a silicone sheet that will fit my planned bench size. It seems to tick all the boxes in being finish and heat resistant. Anyone try using something like a silicone mat for the top of their bench? Any other ideas I should consider. The bench is going to be about 60" x 30" or so.

Thanks in advance!

[Jim Becker]

The silicone isn't going to withstand direct flame if that's a concern. Otherwise, it's an interesting idea. But honestly, the replaceable hardboard method is still pretty valid for something like this.

[Ron Selzer]

A chunk of laminate (Formica, WilsonArt, etc) is what I would use based on what you stated.
Good Luck

Ron

[Robert D Evans]

If your plans are to spray right on the workbench surface, I think any surface is going to get marked up really quickly. If you get paint on the surface, you can transfer the paint to another project during sanding. I prefer to keep things simple. I used a nice piece of cabinet grade 3/4" plywood for the workbench top. Then put numerous coats of poly on it. Easy to wipe up glue drips and brush off wood chips. For finishing, I have a roll of brown craft paper. Mount it horizontally at the end of your workbench and it'll be quick to pull it out. When the craft paper gets nasty, tear it off, throw it out and pull off some more.

[Paul Heely]

If your plans are to spray right on the workbench surface, I think any surface is going to get marked up really quickly. If you get paint on the surface, you can transfer the paint to another project during sanding. I prefer to keep things simple. I used a nice piece of cabinet grade 3/4" plywood for the workbench top. Then put numerous coats of poly on it. Easy to wipe up glue drips and brush off wood chips. For finishing, I have a roll of brown craft paper. Mount it horizontally at the end of your workbench and it'll be quick to pull it out. When the craft paper gets nasty, tear it off, throw it out and pull off some more.

I had not thought about using something like craft paper as a sacrificial surface when finishing. I think I like this idea a lot. I'm thinking I could also get some sort of fire retardant material to put on the bench if I'm doing any burning with a torch.

[Jim Becker]

Paul, I keep a roll of brown paper in my shop and also reuse all that brown and white paper that's commonly used for packing material in boxes of stuff that arrive "very frequently" for protecting a bench or other surface while doing finishing work.

[Paul Heely]

Thanks for the ideas and feedback. Was trying to find a one-size-fits-all solution for my bench top. Using a truly disposable surface for finishing makes much more sense. I also just found a fireproof welding blanket that I think I can throw on the bench when doing burning work just to be safe. Final plan is a basic 2x4 bench with plywood top along with brown paper and a welder blanket. Think that will serve me very well and not cost a ton to build.

[Jeremy Treibs]

Bob over at I Like to Make Stuff on YouTube poured a custom silicone work surface. I use a couple rolls of heat resistant non stick oven liner mat for my bench top and lathe bed when necessary. I purchased the widest and longest uncut piece I could find on Amazon.

[Bill Dufour]

tile, marble granite or cast concrete. But you risk chipping and cracking if you pound too hard. A big surface plate would aslo be a good thing. A worn one would be plenty accurate for wood working. Soapstone or marble are the materials for fireplace surrounds for a good reason. Got a poor speller who cuts headsones? Maybe he has some errors for sale, cheap.
Bill D.