I have never used Wenge, but I intend to make some small boxes to hold toothpicks.
For some other wood, I am starting with BLO or Danish Oil, letting it dry then finishing it with amber shellac.
Does this sound reasonable for the Wenge as well?
I have never used Wenge, but I intend to make some small boxes to hold toothpicks.
For some other wood, I am starting with BLO or Danish Oil, letting it dry then finishing it with amber shellac.
Does this sound reasonable for the Wenge as well?
I use solvent varnish on wenge - usually wipe-on.
For what its worth, I made one project out of wenge 20 years ago. I put wipe on varnish on it and it still looks good. It got almost black, if that is what you are looking for.
I don't claim to be an expert, but I have always heard that putting a soft film like danish oil under another harder finish is a mistake.
Andrew...wenge will take a finish so take the scrap, sand it and try out various things to see what you like the best. Any kind of oil/oil-based product is going to "warm up" the look. Don't experiment on your actual project....
BTW, be very careful with splinters...they can be nasty.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
I've used Danish Oil, Tried and True Original Finish(Polymerized Linseed Oil and Beeswax) and General Finishes Bowl Finish on Wenge. The first two will darken the Wenge somewhat but leaves a nice finish to the touch. The General Finishes Bowl Finish leaves a slightly higher sheen and also seems to be a harder finish. My understanding is that all are food safe after curing.
If using the Tried and True, try sanding to a very high grit(1000 or more) and you will find it absorbs a little less and therefore doesn't bleed back from the pores as much. Also leaves a very smooth feel to the finish.
Jim
Danish oil doesn't have an actual meaning, but it is usually a mix of oil and varnish that leaves a soft film. Blo leaves less of a film if used lightly, so it would be better. Solvent based varnish should have the same effect as either of them, but leaves a hard film. You can then put shellac over that if you want, though it seems unnecessary.
I would use De-waxed Garnet shellac. fast dry, easily repaired, food-safe, hard finish, colorfast (never yellows) pops the grain and enhances the color.
Scott
Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.