Recommendations for finishing cabinet doors (cherry)

[Zachary Caldwell]

I have never really finished anything but hate paying someone for something I feel like i could do. Looking for GF or Target recommendations for spraying Qtr. Swn cherry veneered doors (kitchen). Also, what sheen is most common satin or semi-gloss? Is there a base coat needed before the top coat?

[Prashun Patel]

Satin sheen is more common. You could even go flat...

I'd spray Target EM8000CV with the added Crosslinker. It's a spray waterbased conversion varnish. I've done 2 tables and a guitar with it, and it's a dream to apply.

With cherry, a waterbased product may not be as 'warm' as an oil based one might be. So, if this is important to you, you can shoot a seal coat of Sealcoat Zinsser first. The crosslinker will give the finish a slight amber cast too. I can't say enough good things about it. I did my walnut kitchen island with flat and am impressed.

I've also done a couple tables and cabinets in GF Enduro Clear Poly. That's another great product. I prefer the Target though. 1) It seems to lay down better for me (this may be that I'm just improving my skill) 2) It does not scab over the tip as readily as ClearPoly or Endurovar.

One more tip. Spend the time to build a way to hang the doors while you spray them and a way to move them easily for drying. It's nice to be able to spray all sides at once.

[Zachary Caldwell]

Thanks for the response. I had never heard of Target until this forum and had read good things. I had been thinking the conversion varnish. From reading it seems to be one of the more durable.

[Jim Becker]

I'm with Prashun on the recommendation. The EM8000cv with the cross linker has a slightly warmer color and is "darn durable". ALternatively, their EM2000 has an even warmer color as it's an emulsified alkyd finish that imparts oil based look with waterborne convenience. It can also take advantage of the cross linker for increased chemical resistance...always a good thing in a kitchen environment.

[John TenEyck]

Practice on scrap or the back of a drawer front before you move to the actual doors. I'm also in agreement with Prashun and Jim except I would spray everything flat. If you are new to spraying shooting a hanging door is not something you want to start out on. You can get away with a coat that's a little too heavy when the work is laying horizontal; you can't when it's hanging. It's also far easier to see the wet line when the work is horizontal. I've sprayed a hundred gallons or more of stuff and still prefer horizontal orientation if at all possible.

As for sheen, satin or flat would be my choice It'll look like hand rubbed cherry and that's a beautiful thing to me. Also, I would consider spraying a coat of light brown dye stain first. It'll warm up the color even more than Sealcoat.

Again, try whatever you think of on scrap first.

John

[Zachary Caldwell]

Satin is definitely what I had been thinking just wasnt sure. I am going to be spraying horizontally for sure.Has anyone ever used Magnamax h20 or General Finishes product for kitchen cabs? I have access to those two brands and easier to accquire.

[John TenEyck]

Satin is definitely what I had been thinking just wasnt sure. I am going to be spraying horizontally for sure.Has anyone ever used Magnamax h20 or General Finishes product for kitchen cabs? I have access to those two brands and easier to accquire.

I have no experience with Magnamax H2O but I've used a lot of GF products. I sprayed my own kitchen cabinets with Enduro Clear Poly. After 18 - 24 months I can report that it's generally been very good, but it has suffered a couple of permanent stains where my enthusiastic wife drooled something down the face of a couple of the lower doors. I cleaned off the grease or whatever it was and some left no damage but a couple of the larger drools left a lasting lighter colored shadow to the gray color underneath. Knowing what I know now, I'd go with TC's EM-8000 conversion varnish, or some other catalyzed finish. However, I don't think I'd use GF's Conversion Varnish because of the catalyst they use. You'd want to be fully suited up and have a pro shop spray booth to safely use it.

John

[Ed Gibbons]

Do you need to add the cross linker to the EM8000CV?

[Jim Becker]

Do you need to add the cross linker to the EM8000CV?

Need to? No. The crosslinker does, however, provide additional chemical resistance which can be a good thing in some environments, such as the kitchen. The crosslinker works with other Target finishes, too, for the same effect. If one does choose to use it, it should only be put in the finish that's in the gun cup and it does create a "shelf life" for the finish. Never put it in the finish can since that will render the material unusable after a few days. Think of it as an additional catalyst that makes chemical changes to the product for a particular reason.

[Joe Samorodin]

I use Magnamax H2O and prefer it over Target or GF. It is very durable has a nice tone and sprays well. Trick is light,light coats and patience.

[Zachary Caldwell]

I use Magnamax H2O and prefer it over Target or GF. It is very durable has a nice tone and sprays well. Trick is light,light coats and patience.

What size tip do you spray with?

[Joe Samorodin]

I am spraying with a 1mm cap size currently on as Fuji spray gun. Been meaning to try Apollo but its difficult to get them north of the 49th.

[Zachary Caldwell]

I am spraying with a 1mm cap size currently on as Fuji spray gun. Been meaning to try Apollo but its difficult to get them north of the 49th.

I hear that. I understand that living in Alaska. I figured the 1mm would be a good option. I have really good access to fuji and the Magnamax and GF finishes so that is one of my main decision makers.