Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Putting finish on a trivet

  1. #1

    Putting finish on a trivet

    Friends, i'm having trouble putting a Varathane finish on some trivets I've made. It's hard to get the Varathane into the slots (dados) without it running, puddling and making blobs on the bottom part when it dries. Because the trivet can be used with either side up, both of them should look good when finished. I've used a thin brush, and tried a foam brush. Not yet tried artists brushes or Q-tips.

    Any suggestions? Thanks. (sorry for upside down photo)

    20201216_175207.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,662
    Blog Entries
    1
    Just a question. Since a Trivet is designed to protect an underlying surface from hot cookware, are you sure you want to put any finish on your trivet? What temperature would melt or burn the polyurethane finish, which is essentially plastic?
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,514
    Blog Entries
    1
    As Lee observes, I do not know that Varathane is made for heat contact. I could see the film failing eventually. I use mineral oil just like I do for cutting boards. No drips or runs, easily refreshed and I have trivets that have been in service at home and in the field for many years.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #4
    What they said. Danish oil or similar. Also, the key to brushing finish on things like that is to keeps the brush clean. The should be any finish being about 3/4" up the bristles. You want the brush to behave more like a large Sharpie than a mop.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    10,014
    I agree it will not take the heat. I would thin it 50% with thinner and use many coats to build thickness.
    Bil lD

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,923
    I'd use mineral oil...and a dipping technique...rather than a film finish for this application. Most film finishes don't hold up to heat very well and while that heat is typically less for a dish on the table, if they are also used for cooking items like pots and pans, it will get not nice faster. A compromise would be BLO and a dipping technique and I'd probably use compressed air to blow off the excess due to all the nooks and crannies.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,768
    One or two coats of Danish Oil worked fine on the ones I made. Hot pans have had no affect.

    John

  8. #8
    Thanks for your thoughts.

    Years ago I tried unfinished, and the wood faded. I also tried Varathane and it worked just fine despite the heat. But maybe oil is the way to go. I like Jim's air blow advice--if I can avoid making a mess on everything around it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,923
    Let them drip off well first, Bill. The air is just to get the remained out of the crevices and if you wait a bit, it will be minimal. A cheap wire rack over the dipping bath container can help with that. Be sure to properly dispose of any rags you use in the process... wink, wink....nod, nod...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •