Bandsaws: What to look for

[John Bailey]

This subject has come up in the past, but we've got a lot of new members now and I'm getting closer to buying. So I thought I'd put down what I'm looking for in a bandsaw and have others provide their input.

1. 16" to 21" wheels made of cast iron
2. cast iron trunions
3. 12" resaw capacity
4. 3 hp. motor
5. 400-600 lbs.
6. Able to realistically tension a 1" blade for resaw
7. Cost - $800 to $1,600

For me, I'm going to need a bandsaw that is using a smaller blade, for curves, most of the time, but occasionally will be using all of the 12" of resaw. I'm just a hobbiest, so industrial quality is not that important, but the stouter the better.

John

[Jim Becker]

John, I believe you'll be able to find something just like that in the price range you state. Green or green and white come to mind.

[John Bailey]

Jim,

You can probably deduce where I've been looking today, since the mail came anyway. The catagory that I don't have much info on is the blade tension. I was hoping some would chime in on the subject that have experience with the less expensive models. Their weight makes me wonder if they are really robust enough to handle a 1" blade.

John

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I've got an older Hitachi resaw bandsaw, not what you are looking at, but it does have a BIG blade on it.....



The spring on mine is going, or gone, I need to order another one.

The wheel on top is a JOKE when you want to tighten or loosen the tension, I just use a pipe wrench

I don't know how you feel about buying an older used Bandsaw, but, if I were you, living in the US, I'd not hesitate, I'd go looking and find one in fair condition and fix it up. The older Bandsaws are the best bang for the buck, You get a well made SOLID machine that, with some TLC will serve your for MANY years to come.

The newer ones are nice, for sure, but to match the quality of the older machines, you have to get into a fairly high price range, from what I've seen.

Just my two yen's worth.

Cheers!

[tod evans]

john, i can`t answer your question on the green saws ability to tension a 1" blade but i would suggest you up the motor to one that draws a minimum of 18 amps on 220, at bare minimum a 3.5 horse. i frequently bog down a 9 horse when i`m pushing things.........02 tod

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Here is the motor plate for my bandsaw.......



I've not once EVER bogged this thing down, not even close, even when ripping at the full 12" capacity, in HARD Japanese Evergreen Oak, with a few burls and a crotch as well.

This motor just rips, it is a univeral motor, NOT an induction motor, and it has a gear box on it..........



My point is, it is not just the HP of the motor, but the blade speed and such, so gearing, via pulley size, is also important. Of course so is blade speed, but I think you could lose a little blade speed and gain some grunt.

If you put a smaller pulley on the motor and a larger pulley on the saw, you will drop the gearing, giving you more grunt, this might be a cheaper way to go than a new motor.........?

Worth a shot.....

Cheers!

[John Bailey]

Let me point this thread in a slightly different direction. Considering my list in the original post, which considerations are most important, which shouldn't I worry about so much. Some of you folks have used bandsaws for quite a while, and I've only researched. There are probably some real world concerns that need to be attended to, while others are probably not so important.

John

[tod evans]

john, for bandsaws i`m very fond of the welded steel frames. realistically 95% of the time you won`t use anymore than 10-12 inches of resaw height, only you know how many dollars that other 5% is worth. i`ve seen welded steel trunions that where as stout or stouter than cast ones so the design is more important than the material. everybody has their own preference on guides, even the metal blocks do the job but bearings are much nicer. i don`t think the style is a big deal;euro or conventional, they both work well. tires are something you will be replacing at some point so pay attention to how they are mounted and what they are made of. if dust collection is an issue for you two ports are mandatory. make sure the blade tracking mechanism is well made and servicable. as for the motor, just as with most tools bigger allows you more speed. .....02 tod

[Bill Webber]

John, you list a lot of features you want or believe you need, but you don't say what you will use it for. I had (have) a Delta 14 inch with a riser. I struggled with occasional 12 inch resaw until I but a 1/2 inch Lenox carbide blade and a new spring on it. With only a 3/4 hp motor, resaw capability is quite acceptable. Would you want to use it for resawing all day? I doubt it.

Now, I've just purchased an MM-20. Big honkin' resaw capability with lots of HP. This will be used for resawing, bowl blanks, cutting up logs, etc. It is not likely I'll ever try to put an 1/8th inch blade on it and cut 3" circles. I plan to keep both saws (I'm not sure I will have room to actually use them... )

What is the smallest scroll blade you folks have used on these bigger saws like the MM-16 or 20?

Regards,
Bill W.

[tod evans]

bill, the mm 16 is my small saw. i keep a 1/4" 4tooth blade on it for doing small curves. tod

[Travis Porter]

U making moonshine to fund all the toys u have? I mean well equipped shop in the sticks and all these antique cars?

[tod evans]

U making moonshine to fund all the toys u have? I mean well equipped shop in the sticks and all these antique cars?

nope, here`s my bread-n-butter. curved stuff. i figured out a long time ago if joe can do it in his garage there ain`t no money in it!

MVC-088S.JPG

[Cecil Arnold]

John, I think Tod is trying to aim you in the right direction. To tension a 1" blade you are going to be at the high end of your budget. While I wish I had the new MM16 for the additional re saw height, I have not often worried about the 12+" I have. I would feel more comfortable if you could better define what you want to do with a band saw. For scrolling you could easily get by with almost any 14" unit (Jet, Delta, Griz) but to do good re saw, book match, or other operation requiring blades over 1/2" I think you need to consider the "big iron" and HP to match.

[John Callahan]

Tod, do you use the stock guides or the cool block conversion kit for the 1/4" blade?

[tod evans]

Tod, do you use the stock guides or the cool block conversion kit for the 1/4" blade?

just what came with the saw. they haven`t worn out yet and work fine.