Some of you may recall seeing pics of a quilt patterned "cutting" board I made recently for a co-worker to give as a gift. Nicest (IMO) and most challenging cutting board I'd made to date. Not more than a three weeks after completion, the board has cracked badly. Fortunately, it failed before it was given as a gift, and I'm going to build a replacement post-haste. I'm looking for advice in order to avoid having the same problem happen with the replacement. First, the forensic evidence...
Here's the cracked section. You'll notice it not only broke along the glue joints, it broke one of the pieces of wood as well. You can see a bit of the 3/8" dowel in the widest part of the crack. (The frame of the board is glued and pinned with four dowels along each edge.) It's obvious something changed size, but I haven't figured out if something expanded, or if something else shrank.
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Here's the whole board, so you can see the various wood grain directions. The geometric part in the center of the board is all end grain, and the border is face grain. I believe therein lies the crux of the problem. Also, the final thickness of this board ended up at a bit over 1/2", which is quite a bit thinner than I wanted. I believe that was also a contributing factor, but I'm not sure. Regardless, the replacement board (and another like it that has already been ordered) will be at least twice that thick.
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The end grain materials had all been in my shop for at least a month before milling, and at least that long after milling before being glued up. The border wood was also wood I'd had on hand for a few months, but it was glued up shortly after milling, then attached to the end grain part a few days later.
Another anomoly is that I used plastic resin glue to assemble the nine individual inner square sections, then used Titebond II to glue the nine squares together and to attach the border. Even though the board felt as smooth as polished marble when I delivered it a couple of weeks ago, I notice that now I can clearly feel each of the Titebond joints, but the plastic resin joints are still "invisible" to the touch. I'm guessing this is what folks mean when they speak of glue "creep". It this a correct assumption?
I knew all along that I was taking a chance having different wood grain and shape orientations without making some allowance for wood movement. I was trying to avoid floating the center panel within the border, and instead making it a solid unit -- it's supposed to be a cutting board, after all. Do I need to resign myself to the reality that it'd never be used for actual cutting, so I might as well make the two disparate pieces flexible? If so, any suggestions on how? T&G or splines come to mind, but is there anything I'm missing here? Or will a 1" to 1.25" thickness handle the problem and allow it to be glued solid?Any suggestions are welcomed.
Thanks in advance -
- Vaughn