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Thread: 14 degree bevel

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Benton Falls, Maine
    Posts
    5,480
    Tod - been there too. Works great for cross cutting - as in birdsmouthing rafters and such. Actually this was its intention when first brought to the market years ago. And for ripping it's just like any chainsaw. Uber rough cutting only and a bear to keep it running straight.
    Only the Blue Roads

  2. #17
    Oh, yeah, Tod, now I remember that... since you mention it. I'll offer that, as well. It's his money, I'm just trying to help him spend it.
    Every deed plants a seed.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
    Posts
    2,266
    I think I would do this on my jointer. Glue on a piece of wood, along the length, thick enough so that a straight edge laid across, from the corner of the new board to the opposite edge of the cedar, equals a 14 degree bevel. Then joint away, both the corner of the new board and the opposite edge of the cedar. It will take a bunch of passes, but will be accurate.
    Alan Turner
    Philadelphia Furniture Workshop

  4. #19
    That's a good idea, too, Alan, but I don't think he has one. But, that's what tool stores are for.
    Every deed plants a seed.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,789
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pellow
    OK, I have never used the large Makita saw so I did not know about the deflection. I have a smaller Makita circular saw and it is quite good.

    So, I guess that I woulod need to attempt this with a bandsaw -but I don't have a lot of confidence about my abilities with a bandsaw .
    I have been thinking about this some more and the more I think anbout it the less I would like to do this on a bandsaw. What it really boils down to is that for wood this big, I would much prefer to have the tool moving through the wood rather than having the wood moving through the tool. So, what I would probably do would be first to cut a 14 degree angle as deep as I could with a circular sdaw that I could trust and then complete the cut with a good hand rip saw (I have a good Sandvik rip saw that is about 40 years old -I assume that they are still available).

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Vero Beach FL
    Posts
    594

    Saddle square/jig

    Why not make a jig similar to the LV saddle square, only bigger of course, that has the proper geometry, one which could guide the handheld power saw? One side would be 90 degrees, the other would be the desired angle. You could cut the angles on the side with the saw set at 90 degrees, then angle the saw to parallel the desired angle and run the saw along the guide to cut the top and bottom to finish the angle.

    I think you could also do this with a guided saw system.

    If there was a "nub" left over in the middle, you could easily trim that down with a block plane or belt sander.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sumter, SC
    Posts
    2,231
    I'm sure this will work. Take a look. http://www.eurekazone.com/images/gal...antmakita.html

    You can even attach a hand held power planer to get a perfect finish.

  8. #23
    Good info, folks. I am trying to get in touch with my friend, Dan. I will forward all the ideas to him. He wants to do this in one pass so there are no misalignments. We'll see.
    Every deed plants a seed.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Benton Falls, Maine
    Posts
    5,480
    I'm getting a bit frustrated with this.

    Howard - why don't you post a drawing (as detailed as possible) of what your buddy wants. We're shooting blind.
    Only the Blue Roads

  10. #25
    Ok, here's my best drawing...

    From what Dan explained to me...

    You are looking (in your mind's eye, there is no pic) at the butt end of a 4x12 standing on edge. He wants to cut a 14° bevel down both sides of the beam. I don't recall how far in from the top edge he wants to start, but it will result in a cut that is deeper than a table or circular saw blade will reach. He wants one cut, no near miss aligning.

    That's why I first suggested he buy a band saw and make a set-up on both sides so he could slide it through.

    He works long hours and I can only talk to him at night or weekends. So far, I haven't caught him. I guess I will leave a note on his door to call me.
    Every deed plants a seed.

  11. #26

    Smile

    I have my "I want that" tool list.

    And my "wishful thinking" list.

    And, then of course, there's my "pure fantasy list"

    Gary
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #27
    If the bevel is on the end, rent a sliding miter saw...if it runs the length of the beams, rent the big Makita saw.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Alachua, FL
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Barlow
    A friend wants to cut a 14 degree bevel on both sides of several 4x12x12' cedar beams for a pergola. It will be a pretty deep cut, more than a circular saw will reach. I suggested building a couple of cradles and going through a bandsaw.

    Sitting here thinking about it, I suppose he could rent a 14" Makita circular saw. That should be big enough. Any other suggestions?
    I think I would find a custom saw miller with a small band saw mill and work with them to cut it.
    Leo

  14. #29
    BINGO! Wish I'd thought of that. There is one about 20 minutes from here. Leo, take a tip out of petty cash.
    Every deed plants a seed.

  15. #30
    I was about to suggest a bandmill.


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