Pantry Pullout Questions

[Andy Pedler]

Hi all,

I'm hoping to get some advice from those who have already done this project. I've attached a picture from the Rockler web site showing the guide rails I've purchased. I want to build pullouts very similar to what is shown here. I'll probably just add some "lips" to each shelf to keep things from just rolling off the shelves.

The rest of the shelves in our kitchen cabinets are melamine, and my wife really likes the look of melamine. But I've only built shelves with it, and very simple ones at that. How does it work in a setup like this, where the horizontal shelves will be glued into dadoes in the vertical pieces? Is there any special glue I should use? Will glue be strong enough, or should I reinforce with some other method, and if so, what would that be?

Are there any special screws I need to keep the melamine from splitting?

Secondly, for the front and rear pieces, I was thinking of using MDF to keep the cost down. But, if that isn't compatible with melamine, then that's out.

Any advice about doing this is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Andy Pedler - Newark, CA

[Jim Dunn]

I'd be thinking about the weight of the unit after it's finished and loaded with canned goods. Is the slide unit for 250 or 500lbs? I'm going to build one to hold towels and such for a small bath and figured I needed at least a 250lb slider.

Course maybe you wife is like mine and we go out to eat most all the time, then why bother?

Jim

[Jim Becker]

I used these center mount type slides for several pull-outs in my kitchen and they work "really smooth". My pull-outs are not full height, but the principle is the same...you can get a LOT of stuff in the space this way.

[Andy Pedler]

I don't think that weight is going to be too big an issue for these shelves, versus the strength of the sliders. This particular cabinet will end up being two side-by-side pull-outs, each one about 12-13" wide, with probably only two shelves (one at the floor, one midway up). Since it is below the taller pantry cabinets (which already have shelves...couldn't put the pullouts there, to my dismay, or the right-hand one would have hit the doorknob for the door to the garage...I'm glad I discovered this before buying the extra sliders).

I think my biggest question here is still materials. Does the melamine glue into MDF okay? I could always reinforce it with some screws, but if I do that, is there some special type that I need? Those screws will end up being hidden by the face piece, so they won't effect the aesthetics.

Thanks,

Andy Pedler - Newark, CA

[Steve Clardy]

Andy. Confirmat screws are recommended for PB material.
Theres two sizes, with special bits for them.
Myself, I would just use drywall screws. Coarse thread, drill and countersink them.

[Dave Falkenstein]

Andy - Melamine and MDF can be glued together using plain old yellow glue - I use Titebond. Of course, you cannot glue to the melamine plastic surface, so using dado joints works well.

I have also used the confirmat screws mentioned - they work exceptionally well in melamine and/or MDF, and are available from McFeely's. McFeely's sells a starter set that includes the required drill bit. The confirmat screws can be used to strengthen a dado joint or to make a butt joint. For your application, I'd use dado joints, glue and confirmat screws for added strength.

I built a slide-out pantry similar to the one you are contemplating, using melamine. Mine had casters on the bottom, and slides connected to the back. It worked out really well.

[Andy Pedler]

Thanks for the advice guys...I think I'll check out the special screws from McFeely's just to be safe.

Thanks to all for helping me out. If I remember, I'll try to post some pix when I get this done. I'm hoping to get it done in a month or so, but with two little ones around I have precious little free time for projects these days.

Andy Pedler - Newark, CA

[Bill Fields]

Andy:

I have installed about 10 pullouts in our home and have built a number of shop drawers with full-length slides.

Once you do the one you are contemplating, it becomes an all-consuming drive to do the whole house! They are very handy.

Tips:

-Get the Kreg/rockler installation jigs-one for face frames and the other for straight carcase. Saves you hours of high-level frustration.

-Use ONLY the KV slides offered at Lowe's (not the Chinese one at Lowe's) or the Accuride slides offered in many of the quality stores/mail-order outlets. They cost 10-15% more, but your time installing and your years of use will thank you.

-If installing pullouts in cabinets/carcasses you build--build them first, and then take your dimensions off the finished opening. Why? 1/8" makes a big difference in how the pull-outs work.

-Tilt the slides 1-2 degrees down toeard the back. Helps closing and insures that they drawers/pullouts stay clsoed.

-Patience--and don't be afraid to tear it out and start over. A sloppy job will bark at your conscience wverytime you use it!

Good luck!

Bill