Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 20

Thread: Drum sander advice

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1

    Drum sander advice

    I am not interested in cabnet building, just turning and segment bowls, has any one seen a flat master or similar type sander used ? Looks like a cost saving option for sanding segment rings, also I was advised that a typical drum sander can catch a ring because of sanding cross grain.
    By the way, I am not willing to hold a board with sand paper against the ring on lathe.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
    Posts
    863
    I built my own flat master. It worked really well on solid pieces but isn't the tool for thin-edged "hollow" parts like segmented rings. You have to push against the resistance of the spinning paper and you need enough surface to do that. Could be a tad unsafe to do. I suppose it could be done with rings fixed to a backer board or other holding jig.

    So, I bought a supermax 16-32. The supermax is efficient and it gives accurate thicknesses. I sold my homemade flatmaster. I didn't have enough room to keep both.

    Yes, a drum sander can grab sometimes and leave divots in a piece. The key is to take very small bites at a time. Also, try to balance the load on the sander by doing multiple small rings side by side. Don't use too fine a grit either.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by tom lucas View Post
    I built my own flat master. It worked really well on solid pieces but isn't the tool for thin-edged "hollow" parts like segmented rings. You have to push against the resistance of the spinning paper and you need enough surface to do that. Could be a tad unsafe to do. I suppose it could be done with rings fixed to a backer board or other holding jig.

    So, I bought a supermax 16-32. The supermax is efficient and it gives accurate thicknesses. I sold my homemade flatmaster. I didn't have enough room to keep both.

    Yes, a drum sander can grab sometimes and leave divots in a piece. The key is to take very small bites at a time. Also, try to balance the load on the sander by doing multiple small rings side by side. Don't use too fine a grit either.

    Your flat master grinder definition sounds similar to the glass grinder I built several years ago. I had to replace the magnetic diamond grinding disc with an 80 grit oxide guitar sanding disc when I switched to wood, worked okay, but I bought a 19/38 a few weeks ago too....nice machine!

    84AB7FA5-A84D-4BE7-845E-4E2E436CF8F8_1_201_a.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
    Posts
    863
    Quote Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
    Your flat master grinder definition sounds similar to the glass grinder I built several years ago. I had to replace the magnetic diamond grinding disc with an 80 grit oxide guitar sanding disc when I switched to wood, worked okay, but I bought a 19/38 a few weeks ago too....nice machine!

    84AB7FA5-A84D-4BE7-845E-4E2E436CF8F8_1_201_a.jpg
    The flat master I built is different than this. It's based off the Sand-flee: https://www.rjrstudios.com/store/p3/...um_Sander.html

  5. #5
    Wow, I was way off ��

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
    Posts
    863
    Quote Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
    Wow, I was way off 🤪
    Here is a photo of the one I built. It worked great!
    IMG_0057u.jpg
    Last edited by tom lucas; 08-12-2021 at 6:34 PM. Reason: 2 photos

  7. #7
    Well in my defense I've never seen anything like that ..but you mentioned pushing against the resistance of the spinning paper and it sounded a lot like what I got tired of, you really need to hang on to the wood to use this grinder or it'll go flying. Your flat master interpretation looks good!...also see where you could tire of the pushing and the possibility of the wood wanting to take a hike.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
    Posts
    863
    Quote Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
    Well in my defense I've never seen anything like that ..but you mentioned pushing against the resistance of the spinning paper and it sounded a lot like what I got tired of, you really need to hang on to the wood to use this grinder or it'll go flying. Your flat master interpretation looks good!...also see where you could tire of the pushing and the possibility of the wood wanting to take a hike.
    Flatmasters don't really throw the wood, at least mine didn't. If you let go in the middle of a sand it would just slide back to the infeed side of the table. Biggest danger with them is getting your fingers caught in the roller. It also wasn't tiring to use. It just isn't made for thickness sanding as others have said. The drum sander is both a smoothing as well as a thickness sander. So there is little need to have both. The flatmaster is an excellent tool in its own right; great for cutting boards and leveling rough surfaces.

  9. #9
    To me it looked like depending what side of it you're standing it could be a fun rapid fire spear chucker..... with the glass grinder if you let go of the wood it's like a concrete block bouncing around inside your wife's clothes dryer... somethings gonna get beat up.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Inver Grove Heights, MN
    Posts
    798
    I built a sander based on a drum, and a set of plans that I bought at a woodworking show probably 20 years ago. It is similar to the Sand-Flee or the Flatmaster. I don't use it often, but I did drag it out day before yesterday to prep some wood that became segments. I have used it flatten segment rings, but it isn't really the best tool for that. If your piece is less than 1/2 inch thick you might sand your fingers as much as the wood.

    Tim, if you live anywhere near St Paul, MN I would lend you my sander for a project or two, to see if it is the right tool for your use. I don't use it enough that I would miss it.

  11. #11
    Thanks I didn't think about thin rings,at this time I use a coll jaw and sand on a drill press,kind of time consuming but it works.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    262
    I have a performax 16-32, I do mostly segmented turning. It does a great job and I have very little trouble. I would not want to flatten rings any other way. I have flattened down to 1/8 inch and no issues

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    I use a Performax 22-44 to flatten make parallel both sides of a variety of things for turning, but not segmented rings. The only time I've seen snipe/divot is on the trailing edge of a relatively small diameter piece if I didn't support it properly. As the piece emerges from moving under the drum I hold down the leading edge with one hand so it can't rise up. I do take multiple light passes with relatively coarse paper, never a heavy pass.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Gresham, Oregon
    Posts
    406
    I have the same drum sander as JKJ and found that using a sled with a "curb" attached to hold the piece in place works well for me. Otherwise that divot issue can show up....or it might just get spit back at you!!

  15. #15
    Thanks all, I now know what to look for.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •