1. What size blade: 10"
2. What make: Ridge Carbide (2 primary blades swapped for sharpening).
3. TPI and blade type: 40T Super Blade, 48T Ultra Blade
4. How long have you been using this blade/brand: 3 years
1. What size blade: 10"
2. What make: Ridge Carbide (2 primary blades swapped for sharpening).
3. TPI and blade type: 40T Super Blade, 48T Ultra Blade
4. How long have you been using this blade/brand: 3 years
I have all three brands you mentioned. My preference is for Freud Industrial, but bought some Infinity blades when I got the SawStop, and found the Freuds were undersized.
Since then, Freud now makes full 10" in some models.
My preference for ripping is the Freud full kerf 24 tooth, unless it is really thick and I pull out an old Delta 16 tooth. The Freud makes a very smooth cut with flat bottom.
For general use, I have been using Infinity General 40 Tooth, and they work well, but I still like the Freud better.
I use a really nice melamine blade by Forrest, and it does great. I never had great luck with the WWII though, they seem to get dull fast for me in general use.
If I am cutting a lot of Part board or melamine I go with a cheap 7 1/4 blade on my old Uni, to save wear on the good ones.
Dado's are done on the Unisaw with either a Freud Box Joint set or my 20 year old Forrest Dado King....a great set. On Melamine shelving I use a Sears carbide wobble dado. It actually does a reasonably good job, and I don't want to dull the Forrest set.
Rick Potter
DIY journeyman,
FWW wannabe.
AKA Village Idiot.
My go-to combo blade is a 10" Oldham Woodworking Wizard blade I picked up at the Novi MI woodworking show at least 15 years ago shortly after I got my G1023. 60 tooth IIRC. Plenty of meat on the carbides. I also have a 10" Freud crosscut blade and a Freud rip blade. Still using the Dewalt crosscut blade that came with my 12" MS two years ago. My old 10" Milwaukee MS has a Diablo blade. All are scheduled to go to sharpening now that I am done with my stranded bamboo floor project. Fave is my Freud dial-a width 8" dado blade.
NOW you tell me...
I use 10" CMT ripping blade or glue joint blade in my Delta table saw and 12" CMT melamine blade in sliding saw. I also have Craftsman ripping blade for cutting barn wood, 12" Japan Kanefusa, 12" Irvin Marples in SMC.
Jaromir
My table saw for the time being is a low end hybrid with a Porter Cable nameplate, so all my blades are 10" The two I use most often are both CMT. By default, there is a 50 tooth combination blade in the saw. If I'm going to do a bunch of ripping or for cutting splines or anything requiring a flat bottom, I swap in a 24 tooth FTG ripping blade. The CMT blades work fine for me. I don't think they are the absolute best blades, but they are well balanced and precisely made, so plenty good for the light duty my table saw gets.
12"x48T Woodworker II on a 5HP CU300 slider. If I was ripping a lot of 8/4 hardwood I'd consider a dedicated rip blade but the WWII combined with a scoring blade pretty much cuts anything I throw at it, very well. You just need to slow down ripping thick stock.
I bought a second WWII and tried to source a new 1/8" kerf scorer last month thinking my 4 year old WWII needed sharpening, but it turns out I was cutting some really bad but expensive plywood. I just got a bunch of cherry and good quality birch plywood and the 4 year old blade cuts perfectly.
Mark McFarlane
Forrest 10" 20 tooth on SawStop ICS 5hp, Forrest 8" Dado set rarely, combo blades never
Panel Saw in Garage Forrest blade special made in the late 80's which gets resharpened by Forrest as needed
Panel Saw in basement still on original Milwaukee blade will get changed out to Forrest when dull
Radial Arm Saws assortment of Forrest, Freud, etc 10" 60-60 tooth blades mostly ATB most bought 80-90's one newer maybe 5 yrs old
I learned many years ago when I opened my shop and just bought Amana. At the furniture shop they bought a lot of Tenryu blades. I can't remember what we were using on the Altendorf..
I juse open the Amana catalog and search my desires...
I use either 10 or 12” blades, most are FS Tools, in addition to one Felder blade.
I have TCG for melamine,a long with scoring.
I mostly use FTG for rip, although I have one 28 tooth 12” ATB for rough timber breakdown and straight line ripping.
I also have various ATB’s for cross cutting and plywood, as well a combo blade for stock up to about an inch and change….Rod.
A variety of blades on my Delta Unisaw. All 10" diameter. Most are Freud Industrial series, including a 30T glue-line rip, a 24T general rip, a 40T general-purpose blade (it's a chrome finish, haven't been able to find another), a 60T thin-kerf crosscut. Also have a bunch of 10" thin-kerf blades for my Bosch miter saw. A variety of brands - Bosch, DeWalt, Diablo. I also have a Ridge Carbide TS2000 that I don't like, it leaves a rough cut compared to the Freud blades. I just bought a CMT Industrial 60T cabinetmaker's blade, which has yet to see action. I got it really cheap, so it's more or less a backup blade for now.
Jon Endres
Killing Trees Since 1983
10" table saw - Freud Glue Line rip 30 T for ripping.
10" table saw - Freud 8" stacked dado.
10" table saw - Ridgid 50 T combo ($29 "Black Friday" special from 10 years ago - has held up pretty well)
10" table saw & miter saw (non-slider) - 40T Freud LU72R010 general purpose - these go on sale quite often
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
I use only 10" blades on my table saw and 12" blades on my SCMS.
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
If not mentioned already, give Tenryu a look.
Erik
Ex-SCM and Felder rep
probably have 10 manufacturers from 8" to 16" and likely one 18" that wont fit my saw. Ton of blades from when I did auctions when you could be present.. Royce and and
Andrew Choholic who used to post here and on the canadian forum swore by Kanafusa blades. He found a real difference in the blades. If I need more blades will try them. All the blades i have work. Lots will come down the people sharpening it., Stuff went in to Royce last times came back with totally different grinds on it.
The biggest improvement ive found in saw blades is putting any of them in the SCM saw compared to the general saws.
I run the same full kerf 10" blades on my SawStop that I ran on my Uni-saw: Forrest WW I (60 tooth), WW II (40 tooth), WW II ply-veneer (70 teeth) WW I (40 tooth) flat grind. Freud (20 tooth) rip blade .
I started utilizing Forrest blades 35+ years ago and see no reason to change.