Dealing with polyurathane yellowing?

[Al Lupone]

I've had a few hundred bd ft of red oak stashed away for 30 yrs. A few yrs ago I made window jambs from some of the oak. Made the mistake of finishing with Minwax fast dry PU. I'm finally getting around to making all the molding for the room now that I've made the garage into a workable shop.
Problem I came up with is how incredibly yellow the finish has turned on the jambs. I wanted to use a WB PU for the molding. Tried the General Finish Hi Performane WB PU both with & without a base coat of Zinsers Sealcoat. Even tried tinting the shellac with honey amber Transtint dye.For test pieces I am using offcuts from the window jambs. Everything I've tried seems to "pop" the red in the oak & really emphasize the yellow "plastic" look that is already there on the jambs. Do I have any choice but to go back to the Minwax?
Thanks
Al

[Doug Shepard]

I'm not sure who makes them, but I've seen ambering additives for WB finishes listed in WW catalogs. Wish I could remember which catalogs. I think they're intended to make WB finishes go on more like traditional varnishes or Polys at least in terms of color. Wish I could be more help. You might try a google search for 'amber additive' or 'ambering additive' along with water based finish to see if you can locate them.

[Howard Acheson]

What are you trying to do? Change the color of the existing woodwork or match the existing woodwork with the new trim? Do you have a problem with the way the old work looks?

The only way to reduce the yellow in the existing is to strip it off.

The least yellowing finish will be a waterborne acrylic varnish or poly varnish. Used directly from the can, it adds virtually no yellow to lighter colored woods.

[Al Lupone]

Not really keen on stripping the existing wood down. I was hoping to come up with a way to make the new molding not look so different from the existing yellow finish.
Also am wondering if the existing finish will continue to get even more yellow toned. If that is the case, I may have to go with the same Minwax fast dry PU. I was hoping to get away from the oil based finishes.
Al
P.S. Howie, this is the same answer I posted in the other place. No need to reply to both.
Thanks

[Jeff Jewitt]

Al,

You are attacking only one half of the problem. Oil based polys are notorious for yellowing, but the wood has yellowed as well. I think if you use a golden brown stain first (I would use a dye), then the tinted w/b you might find it a better match. I usually don't get the color I'm after by just tinted the finish when matching old finishes.

JeFF

[Jim Becker]

Thanks, Jeff. And welcome to SMC. Your sage comments in this forum from time to time will be appreciated by all!

[Al Lupone]

Thanks Jeff,
I found with the open pores on the oak that tinting the shellac didn't work to well. If I then sanded it left the yellow tones just in the open pores & rays. I'll pick up some golden brown tomorrow. Then do some experimenting.
Al

[Ken Garlock]

Welcome to the Creek Jeff. I know you are a very busy man, but do stop by and visit from time to time.

I just finished reading you article on painting in this months Wood magazine. I said to myself, hey I do most of that, but it just doesn't come out the same. I guess I am still too heavy handed with the brush. Or, maybe it is the "do most of that" part that is getting me. In any event I enjoyed the article and learned from it.

[Joe Unni]

Al,

I wish I had some information for you, but I'm curious...where north of Boston? I'm also north of Boston - shop's in Lawrence. As you're into boating an such, my guess is that you're in the north shore. Am I right?

Anyways...good luck,
-joe

[Al Lupone]

Joe,
I keep my Mistress in Beverly Harbor. Even SWMBO accepts that the NITES OFF has 1st priority on my time. That is why I am just finally getting back to this molding project. Once this is out of the way then I can start to change my "workshop" into the living room that it is supposed to be. I've spent a good part of my free time over the last year turning my 100+ yr old carriage house/garage into a workshop.

Yesterday it was nice to turn on the DC, grab some scrap oak, rip it, cut to length on the SCMS, turn to the router table & run through the CMT corner beading bit & finally sand to 220 on the downdraft table. (How is that for a run-on sentence?)
Al

[Jeff Jewitt]

It's nice to know that article came out. That was a fun project to do and the prop was nice.
A finish like that is all about taking your time, having some good brushes and some "tricks" like the nail board and the Floetrol.
Unfortunately Wood Magazine wanted that cupboard back, much to the dismay of my wife Susan (she's used to us keeping props). So I had to do another one which I gave her for Christmas.

Jeff

[Dennis Peacock]

Welcome to SMC Jeff Jewitt.!!!! I have almost every book you have out and a couple of video's as well. Thanks for teaching us about finishing wood.