methods for preparing boards with hand tools

[Eric Rathhaus]

Warren, I wondered if you would say he wastes material as I think I remember you writing that you wouldn't start working with a crown up for this reason. Is there another book or video that you think provide a better method?

[Tom Trees]

This was only on the UK forum last week.
I suggested this particular video was one, if not the best video on hand planing available for free,
I suggested Charlesworth's methodology for the last wee bit'
some couldn't get around the fact that Rob was using the bench as a straight edge, plus to a lesser extent as winding sticks
even though actual winding sticks were used also.

The only thing that irk's me is the cross grain planing is wasteful and more time consuming compared to just looking,
planing corner to corner yes, that would be the first thing I would have done in the video above, and I don't need a scrub either to do it.
Some even suggest bevelling the end to do this!

If one were to take a leaf out of Charlesworth's book instead, one would be aware how precious the perimeter of the work is, slight hollows if you will,
that is fundamental thinking if one wants to achieve good accuracy in getting a truly flat surface.
One wrong shaving can spoil things, especially if the timber is on the skimpy side, that's why I like having a flat bench to get an idea of what the timber looks like everywhere.

If using a flat surface and referring to it, not just using it, a bevel on the edge of the work makes it less noticeable by eye to see flat,
and for the heavier shavings, takes near twice the effort to check, and this is where the big angle poise lamp comes into play.

Haven't seen a truly honest approach concerning flatness, done as fast as the flat bench method,
Add Warren's suggestion from the old books, of using the cap iron to its full potential and it's an unbeatable combination, regardless if you use winding sticks or not.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGuGFGAQTxE

[Charles Guest]

I'm about to begin the process of learning how to prep boards with only hand tools. I've watched many videos, read books/articles, etc. I'm drawn to the method in the attached video, but it's a little different than many others I've seen. What method do others follow and do you see problems with how he does it? (I'm think of you, Warren.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEdgF8NDsB0

Here's all you really need to know: the board can never be thicker than it's lowest spot. You have no choice but to plane to the lowest depth (and a touch beyond if using rough sawn lumber) on any face or edge. Save boards with end-to-end bow for long components that will be fastened at mid length -- think cupboard backboards as one example. If you try to flatten a board like that, you'll end up with nothing. Select components that need to stay flat and out of twist from boards that show the least amount of warp in the rough -- you're thinking about door and drawer components in this instance. Cutting critical smaller parts out of profoundly warped boards is asking for trouble. You might get away with it every now and then, but I wouldn't count on it. Profoundly twisted boards are why you don't buy 100 bd. ft. of lumber for a project that requires 100 bd. ft. of lumber. You need to be able to mentally deal with an occasional piece of stock not worth your time or trouble. That or put it into a project and pay later.

The rest of it is just common sense -- don't try to use winding sticks on a convex hump, so start your work on the cupped face. The first side you flatten, the "reference" face, is not necessarily the face that will show. Sometimes it is, a lot of times it should not be. The flattest side of a tabletop should be the one that registers to the undercarriage, otherwise you risk pulling the whole structure into twist when you install the top, etc., etc. We can get into all that later.

[Warren Mickley]

so you say the technique demonstrated in the original video is wasteful of material. I don’t understand that at all. Essentially he gets the four outside corners in a plane removing the minimum wood possible, then planes everything in between those four points down to the same plane.

Can you describe how you would get a surface flat while removing less wood than that?

Mike planes cross grain until the plane stops cutting, which planes the board somewhat hollow. Not only is it hollow, but the low spots are quite torn up from the cross grain planing. So he has to plane down to the low spots and even lower to plane out the torn cross grain cuts. This is wasteful of time and material. When Mike starts with the iron plane he actually planes down the corners which he previously called the low spots. Look at how much planing he has to do just because he planed the center (which had been the highest) lower than his supposed references.

If you read what Jason said last night at 10:54 post 14, he says check with straightedge often. Mike checks with straightedge not at all. Jason's advice is much better:

"Remember, don't plane blindly. Your board will change with each pass, so study often by checking with sticks and straightedges and squares.

This is the best "method". Learning what each board needs and planing to fix specific problems while checking your work often and adjusting accordingly."

[Jason Buresh]

Mike planes cross grain until the plane stops cutting, which planes the board somewhat hollow. Not only is it hollow, but the low spots are quite torn up from the cross grain planing. So he has to plane down to the low spots and even lower to plane out the torn cross grain cuts. This is wasteful of time and material. When Mike starts with the iron plane he actually planes down the corners which he previously called the low spots. Look at how much planing he has to do just because he planed the center (which had been the highest) lower than his supposed references.

If you read what Jason said last night at 10:54 post 14, he says check with straightedge often. Mike checks with straightedge not at all. Jason's advice is much better:

"Remember, don't plane blindly. Your board will change with each pass, so study often by checking with sticks and straightedges and squares.

This is the best "method". Learning what each board needs and planing to fix specific problems while checking your work often and adjusting accordingly."

One thing I should add is just because a board is smooth and glossy doesn't mean it is flat and square either.

When I first started and didn't know any better I grabbed a jack plane and started planing away at piece of pine I had. I planed off any rough spots and then went to work with the smoother, and got a beautiful glassy smooth surface. I flipped the board over and it rocked like a rocking chair. My issue was when I brought the mouth of the plane behind the board edge, I wasn't holding the plane completely flat because the rear of the plane was heavier than what was in contact with the wood, like standing on the end of a diving board, so the rear of the plane was hanging below the board. After some overzealous planing I essentially made an arc on the face of the board.

If planes automatically made boards flat, we wouldn't need different sizes of them. If your board is wide enough or long enough or both, a no 4 will follow any inconsistencies in the board. That is why it is so important to use sticks, edge and square.

[Ben Ellenberger]

Mike planes cross grain until the plane stops cutting, which planes the board somewhat hollow. Not only is it hollow, but the low spots are quite torn up from the cross grain planing. So he has to plane down to the low spots and even lower to plane out the torn cross grain cuts. This is wasteful of time and material. When Mike starts with the iron plane he actually planes down the corners which he previously called the low spots. Look at how much planing he has to do just because he planed the center (which had been the highest) lower than his supposed references.

If you read what Jason said last night at 10:54 post 14, he says check with straightedge often. Mike checks with straightedge not at all. Jason's advice is much better:

"Remember, don't plane blindly. Your board will change with each pass, so study often by checking with sticks and straightedges and squares.

This is the best "method". Learning what each board needs and planing to fix specific problems while checking your work often and adjusting accordingly."

I think you are mis-understanding the video. He checks for twist, then planes down the two high corners. He explicitly calls out not touching the two low corners.

When traversing, he explicitly calls out not touching the outside edges until the very last pass.

I think you are arguing over one or two shaving thicknesses you could save by switching to planing with the grain slightly sooner.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Hi Tom - what is this UK forum?

[Rafael Herrera]

That's the link I sent you.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Thanks, Rafael. I just checked it out. I enjoyed the the thread that you linked. Looks like many people from Wood central and Wood net.

[James Pallas]

Mr. Seimen’s way is just one way to accomplish the task. He is not working a ten foot piece it’s more of a panel. I approach flattening this way. Evaluate the material for purpose. Plan on a progression of work. Only take off the high areas. Don’t ever trust a low corner for a starting point, you may just have to cut 2 inches off that rough board instead of an eighth inch off a whole face. I use chalk, string lines, straight edges, winding sticks, squares and wedges to stabilize. Be methodical in your approach to work. Each piece of material is different. I haven’t found a one size fits all method that doesn’t make for a lot of extra work.
Jim