Finish For Kitchen Table

[Prashun Patel]

4. THIN coat of dewaxed shellac
4.5 Wait ~1 day between shellac and Target. While we'd like to think shellac dries fast, i have found that a thick coat can dry deceptively slow. That can be a problem when topcoating with something other than shellac. (I had this problem with a previous generation of Target product about 10 years ago.).

I'm speaking out of both sides of my mouth. It's EASY to apply, but I have had a couple of gotchas over the years. All this is to say, just test out your regimen beginning to end on some scrap - or at least on the underside of your table.

[Jim Becker]

Here is my finishing schedule for quarter sawn oak:
1. Sand to 220
2. Miniwax oil stain
3. Wait 2 days
4. Coat of dewaxed shellac
5. Spray em8000 with crosslink

Let me know your thoughts.

Works for me as long as the temps are good for curing both the oil stain and the EM8000cv.

Prashun is spot on regarding the shellac...very thin coat. Just enough to be the barrier. No more. Shellac should always be used in the thinnest overall coating as possible.

[John TenEyck]

All good advice.

None of these potential problems exist with Rubio Monocoat. I just used it again the other day on a walnut project. One application and done. A few hours later it can be handled. A few days later it's fully cured. Easy to apply; easy to repair if ever needed. For a matte finish this stuff is the clear winner for me.

[Prashun Patel]

Btw, John, I got a sample of Rubio and did a serving tray and bowl with it. It was a joy to apply. Smells great and impossible to mess up. I’ve never seen a varnish/wax before. Is that what this is? It’s hard to believe it will polymerize hard enough to provide lasting protection. But we will see!

[Jim Becker]

Prashun, I'm still trying to really understand the concept of a hard-wax oil because until recently, they were "less of a thing" in our geography. The first I saw them used was while watching projects by a guy in Belgium on the 'Tube a few years ago. That was before Rubio and Osmo, etc., hit the market here visibly. I plan on trying them "real soon now" for a project or three, once I have a shop to work in that's more amenable to finishing.

[John TenEyck]

I'm not quite sure what's in RM Prashun. The product literature says plant based but nothing beyond that and there is no SDS to be found so who knows. But it definitely polymerizes - just leave some left over 2C in a cup and look at it the next day. What really matters is it works and works really well. I, too, doubt that it will have the wear resistance of a top end film finish, but it's so easy to repair and refresh that that is almost of no consequence. Repairs blend in invisibly with the surrounding area.

Essentially no talent required to use it - I like that, easy to repair, very durable. Other than the limited sheen it's a winner. The only downside is limited shelf life once you open the container. Even with Bloxygen it started to gel after a few weeks. Maybe putting it in the freezer would help.

One of these days I'm going to look at Osmo Polyox which comes in higher sheens.

John