Grinder tips

[John K Jordan]

It came with tool rests, just need to put them on. What kind of base? Was just going to bolt it onto the workbench it’s on.

The rests that came with all my grinders were not high quality. I bought several of the OneWay Wolverine bases and rests and threw the others away (well actually, threw them in a box). The Wolverine is very sturdy. This shows the basic base and platform, available from many sources.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/o...g-platform-kit

For repeatable angles I make plastic gages to hold against the wheel and very quickly adjust the rest to the precise angle I want, for example:

_scrapers_IMG_7811.jpg

I made this one to set the rest for 90" to sharpen curved hand (card) scrapers. I learned to paint the back side of the plastic to better see the gauge.

template_angle_IMG_7898.jpg template_angle_IMG_7894.jpg

I have several of the original rests that come with the Wolverine but for most grinding/sharpening I prefer the mini platform rest. Bought several from Amazon.

oneway-mini-platform.jpg

My sharpening station continues to change but this is an earlier picture. I've since added a second Tormek and two more bench grinders in another room. Each is for a specific purpose.

Sharpening_small.jpg

JKJ

[Charles Guest]

Bought an 8” grinder a while back and finally got it out of the box. I hate to admit I’m slightly nervous to use it. First thing I need to get done with it is putting a 10” radius on a plane blade for some hogging work.

What tips do y’all have for me before I apply iron to CBN wheel?

here’s the beast…
Attachment 472468

Create the radius freehand on a coarse oilstone and then grind in behind it (NOT all the way to the edge you created at the oilstone, leave a sliver for your fine media) if you want a hollow ground blade. You can scratch in the radius on the flat face with a carbide scriber and then work to it on the stones. Make a template. You're going to have to maintain that shape on stones anyway, might as well learn how to create it there in the first place. What you are describing might take ten minutes, tops. And you won't burn the steel.

There is never a need to grind to a feather edge. Once you understand this, and you'd be surprised how many people don't, then you'll have a real understanding of the process. And once you do understand it, there's no need for water-cooled wheels, special dry wheels that run cool, etc. A plain coarse grindstone is all you need. The one that came with your grinder will work just fine.

[Keegan Shields]

This is genius. Thanks for sharing!

[Kevin Jenness]

Create the radius freehand on a coarse oilstone and then grind in behind it (NOT all the way to the edge you created at the oilstone, leave a sliver for your fine media) if you want a hollow ground blade. You can scratch in the radius on the flat face with a carbide scriber and then work to it on the stones. Make a template. You're going to have to maintain that shape on stones anyway, might as well learn how to create it there in the first place. What you are describing might take ten minutes, tops. And you won't burn the steel.

There is never a need to grind to a feather edge. Once you understand this, and you'd be surprised how many people don't, then you'll have a real understanding of the process. And once you do understand it, there's no need for water-cooled wheels, special dry wheels that run cool, etc. A plain coarse grindstone is all you need. The one that came with your grinder will work just fine.

What's the point of having a grinder if not to save time shaping steel? Friable AlOx and CBN wheels cut tool steel much cooler than the stock wheels, why not use them? Burning is completely avoidable with care. Turners routinely grind to the edge (granted that is typically high speed steel, but still can be done without bluing the steel).
Not saying your way is wrong, but it is not the only way.

[Tom Bender]

Fastening down - if needed you could try just two bolts on the front with wing nuts underneath so it is easy to move when you need your bench for other tasks.

Dust out the back - best to not connect it to your dust collector, don't want to set it on fire (though I have never heard of that happening)
- but then it will shoot dust and sparks onto and behind your bench, I covered the outlets on mine with metal tape

Learning to use it - start out with lawn mower blades

Scrub plane - when I converted my #4 to a scrub it was life changing, you are going to love it. 10" should be plenty, even larger may be good enough.