Router vs. Bandsaw Circle Cutting Jigs

[julian abram]

I've cut a few tabletops with a router circle cutting jig. They turned out nice with careful attention to the setup. Recently I've been thinking about building a jig for cutting smaller circles, maybe 12-14" or less on the bandsaw. I've never cut circles on the bandsaw but seems like the edge would not be as smooth as the router a cut edge. Also seems like the bandsaw would leave tear out along the bottom. Anyone want to share their thoughts on cutting circles with router vs. bandsaw?

[Jerry Bruette]

I've cut some circles with my bandsaw but nothing as big as a table top.

You're right the edge will have to be sanded and I did have tear out on the bottom edge. Maybe some type of backer would prevent the tear out.

[Tom Bain]

If I have a lot of circles to cut (doesn’t happen frequently), I will make a master template using the router jig/trammel arm. Then rough cut the stock on the bandsaw, and use a flush trim bit at the router table with the master template for the final trimming. The main advantage of the bandsaw for circles is speed. The router gives a better quality finish.

[Patrick Varley]

I have 3 different sizes of the Jasper router jigs. Honestly, never been disappointed or seen a reason to try another way.

[Prashun Patel]

I have a bandsaw jig. It cuts more efficiently than a router, but everything you said is right: It requires sanding and it tears out on the bottom (not a big deal).

The bigger issue is that bandsaw jigs require cutting in to the starting point, then locking down the jig then rotating about the pivot. I always find this awkward. Further, for larger circles you need to build auxiliary support, which is always a pain to set up. BS jigs tend to be less accurate than a plunged router cut with a fixed trammel in situations that matter.

However for the router, you do have to be careful of tear out around the end/long grain transitions - notororiously tricky unless you have a good compression or spiral bit. This kind of tear out can damage the edge irreparably and can often require awkward climb cutting. Plus, you are depth limited with a router.

Imho, circles under 2” thick are best cut with a plunge router. The bandsaw is good for thick circles (like bowl blanks) or in a production situation where you can tune the table and support and blade.

[Carl Beckett]

I just watched a video of cutting a round table. First step was routing a groove (did not route all the way through) using a circle jig. Then he used a hand jigsaw to cut all the way through - not getting close to the edge. Then final pass was a bearing flush trim router bit against the edge that was created when the groove was cut.

That gave a great edge via router, but didnt have to try to go all the way through with the circle jig - the flush cut bit did most of the work.

This resonated with me because I did some larger circles on a bandsaw and found it a bit cumbersome to have most of the piece supported off the table and rotate. Using the hand jigsaw allows the piece to be stationary. But the edge was trimmed with the cleaner cut of the flush trim bit.

[Jim Becker]

Sounds like Andy Rawls, Carl. One of his videos I watched recently was exactly as you describe.

I think the router method can be easier to set up, especially for larger diameter workpieces. The bandsaw works with appropriate support, but as has been noted, the initial cut to the starting point can be cumbersome and the "lift" will tend to be higher. That's something to consider for larger and heavier which for the router method can be on a couple of low horses while you move around the workpiece (literally) to do the cut.

[Bob Hinden]

I have done both. I made a circle cutting jig for my bandsaw, works pretty well for small to mid size circles, and use a Trammel adapter for my router for large circles. Both work well, don't go too fast on the bandsaw, and take multiple cuts with the router.

[Richard Coers]

Router is far superior. Carl is right about his method. It way easier on the router when one side of the groove is open. Maybe one difference is that I use a 1 1/4" diameter top bearing Freud pattern bit for the cutting. That diameter is far superior as the tip speed is higher and very little flex. It's also the perfect way to do thick tops. Cut down 1/2" with the circle jig, then do the rest with the 1 1/2 long pattern or flush trim bit.

[julian abram]

Carl, cutting off the waste with a jigsaw and finishing with a flush bearing bit is an excellent ideal. Wish I had thought of that earlier this week. I cut out a couple 3/4"x 16" walnut discs for a lazy Susan with a plunge router and trammel. The discs turned out nice but had to make several nervous slow passes. Thanks for the info.

[julian abram]

I have 3 different sizes of the Jasper router jigs. Honestly, never been disappointed or seen a reason to try another way.

Patrick thanks for mentioning Jasper jigs, I've never heard of them. Looked on their website, appears to be a good solution for cutting smaller circles which is really what I'm looking for at this time.