how to cut a curve.

[Adam Herd]

I am working on making the feet for my dining room table which have a slight arch on the bottom. I am wondering what the most effective way to cut it out by hand is. I made several step cuts and chiseled that out now just need to know what tool to use next. I'm planning to invest in a round bottom spoke shave for finale smoothing. I've seen some people use a gouge after making the step cuts. I do not have a gouge and was looking into buying one but I am not sure what sweep or size would be best. Is there a better way than using a gouge? The radius is 2 inches. Thanks for the help.

[Tom Bussey]

I would use a chisel and cut straight down into the mess. Just don't get into your line and then I would use rasp. If you but a gouge make sure the sharpening angle is on the inside. Any size will ne okay as long as toy stay away from anything over a 2 inch radius.

[Mark Rainey]

Adam, I am not sure how thick the piece you are cutting, but the easiest method would be to use a good rasp. A round bottom spokeshave would have a learning curve, and that curve is on the tight side. A gouge would be helpful, perhaps a #6 would fit that curve. A 12 to 18 mm width would be nice. You could look at the curves for the gouge at the woodcraft website for the pfeil gouges. They are sharpened to a razor edge when purchased. This would be helpful because there is a learning curve to sharpening gouges, and other brands may not be honed to a razor edge when purchased. If you did not want to spend much money you could easily wrap a course sandpaper around a round object ( plastic pipe etc. ) and just sand the wood to the curve. Finish with finer grits.

Tom, I was typing my reply when you posted. We agree

[Phil Mueller]

Good suggestions already. I too would avoid a round bottom shave…at least for the next step. I’d probably cut more kerfs (divide all those steps one more time at least) and chisel out as much as possible first. When I’ve seen things like that done by hand, they cut a zillion kerfs (like 1/8” to 3/16” apart) down to the line and the waste just breaks out.

If you have one, you could use a narrow shoulder plane cross grain to remove more waste.

And yes, a good rasp is a great investment for times like these.

I have a bow saw that I would have likely started with. If you have one, you may want to try that on the next leg first. I’m not sure how wide it is, but maybe even an aggressive blade in a coping saw.

[Jim Koepke]

Adam, as others have said a half round rasp followed by a half round file may be all you need. Work from both sides to avoid blow out.

First remove as much waste wood as you can with a chisel.

Other options depend on what you have on hand and how much work you are willing to put in to this project.

My choice as far as rasps and files are concerned would be the third from the left in this image:

Rasp Line Up.jpg

That is like a half round float. They can leave a very smooth surface on end grain. To the best of my knowledge they are no longer made.

There was a Youtube video about a person making a tool that is basically a chisel with a 90º bevel.

This was given a try. It worked so well a few more have been made including one on a piece of round stock:

90º Bevel Tools.jpg

If you have a grinder or disk sharpener it shouldn't be difficult to make such a tool.

The tricky part is to remember it is the upside of the tool on the grinder that will be used.

It would likely be possible to make one with a piece of ordinary steel pipe. It just may need sharpening more often than hardened steel.

jtk

[Prashun Patel]

For that particular type of cut, the best tool for final shaping is a spindle sander. There are spindles that can be added to a drill press in a pinch.

If intent on doing it by hand, I'd use a radiused rasp.

[Adam Herd]

Thanks for the help! The piece is 5 inches from front to back for who asked. I do have a half round rasp actually I will try to incorporate that. I think I’ll also look into a gouge for removing most of the waste.

[Tom Bender]

Definitely some chisel work next then rasps. It's time to collect a variety. My biggest is a horseshoeing rasp. It can really remove wood, though it would not be useful here.

The center probably does not need to be cut as deep so you can work from both sides and not quite straight across, preventing blowout. If you will eventually chamfer, round over or soften the edges, do it early to prevent blowout.

This would have been a good place to start with a band saw or a hand held equivalent.

[Russell Nugent]

I've got a few of those hoof rasps and they are great for material removal.

[steven c newman]

Next time department:

Hole saw with the required radius
1/2" electric drill

Clamp the drill to a bench. use enough spacers under the drill to get the hole saw to the right height off the bench..

Have a way to lock the drill "on"( a slow speed setting will be used) and then slide the part into the rotating hole saw, slowly....stand with the drill between you and the part..and pull towards you, watching the line you are trying to follow.

Then file/rasp/sand smooth.