Redwood table finish

[Jake Helmboldt]

I have a large table made from reclaimed, unfinished redwood that is in a screened in porch so while not exposed to the elements it is subjected to swings in humidity (including hot, humid Virginia summers). It also gets dusty and dirty since the porches is screened, not closed.

The desire is to apply either a finish or an oil so that it isn’t dried out, and can also be cleaned off occasionally. But we don’t want any gloss or really any kind of sheen. I thought about a BLO and beeswax finish, but I’m concerned about mold and mildew. I’m also concerned that if that doesn’t work well it would be difficult to apply a finish over it with the wax content.

Would Watco Danish oil provide a growth medium for mold and mildew? Lastly I’m thinking perhaps an oil/varnish finish like a few coats of Waterlox original. If it builds any sheen I figure I’d just knock it back with synthetic steel wool.

I’d appreciate any feedback and advice.

Thanks!

[stephen thomas]

Penofin works.
Either the clear or cedar (color) versions for outdoor use.
Unfortunately it will significantly darken the wood.
As i believe any oil finish will.
Try it on scrap, or the underside, first; to see if you can live with the color change.

PS: if you do choose to use it (or other oil finish) be sure to closely observe the part about letting it soak in for whatever time period, then wiping until dry.
If surface residue is left, it creates an unsightly slightly waxy result. It sounds like you are looking for the untreated look of bare, clean lumber. Which can only be maintained by maybe twice yearly, or later yearly clean, scuff sand rough areas, and re apply one very thin coat.

[Rob Sack]

I've used General Finish's Outdoor Oil on vertical grain fir and redwood, both being exposed to the elements. It did darken the wood a bit as expected with any solvent based clear finish. Despite being exposed to direct morning Southern California sun as well as rain, of which we have had an abundance the past two years, it seems to have held up quite well. My house is sided with clear all heart redwood that has been finished with Penofin. I don't remember what shade we picked, but it has held up for over twenty years, although the house now needs re-coating. Obviously, the pigments in the Penofin have helped in it's longevity. But as far as a clear exterior oil-type finish, the Outdoor Oil seems to be the best I have found.

[Jim Becker]

Both Watco "Danish Oil" and Waterlox are wiping varnishes. BLO is a drying oil. All of these penetrate and then dry to seal the wood without making for any appreciable sheen in most cases. None of these offer UV protection and are not technically "outdoor" products but you noted your table is in a covered area and not directly exposed to the weather. Bee's Wax doesn't really permit mold/mildew just like raw honey is somewhat of an antiseptic. And as already mentioned, there are outdoor finishing products that would be worthy of consideration, too.

[John TenEyck]

Over on GF's Facebook forum, there are several horror stories of people who have used GF's Outdoor Oil in high humidity applications very similar to yours. I don't know if they didn't wipe off the finish thoroughly or not, but for several people to have the same complaint about mold growth after only a month seems problematic of the finish. One of them was a porch swing on a covered porch. Cedar, IIRC.

I would use something like Penofin. It's lousy fully exposed to weather in a humid environment, but I used it on a table on my deck that I keep covered when not using, and it has done fine for more than 5 years. No mold, no issues. Any penetrating varnish likely would work fine, too. But I would stay away from organic oils that don't fully cure, like BLO, which is the basis of many outdoor oil products.

John