Beall Buffing System

[Dan Gaylin]

Hi all,

Three questions here:

1. Can I chuck up the 3” Beall bowl buffs in my drill press and use them that way?

2. If not, what hardware do I need to mount the bowl buffs on my lathe? It is not clear to me from reading the descriptions. It sounds like I need the quick release adapter, the 2MT mandrel, and a threaded rod of some type? But not sure how I would attach the bowl buffs that have the concave shape to the rod given that they have a short threaded rod sticking out the back of them (which is why it seems like I could just chuck them up in the drill press).

3. Alternatively the Beall written material talks about mounting to a motor shaft. What motor would I buy and where to get it?

Thanks,

-dan

[Dave Mount]

Not sure how fast your drill press will spin. Because of the small diameter of the 3" buffs, they should spin pretty fast (e.g., 3000 rpm) to work effectively.

There are motor shaft adapters like this one: https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/BK70009/

Or you can get lathe adapters that thread onto the spindle such as: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/h...ender-1-x-8tpi

For small buffing wheels you should get a 3450 rpm, and it needs to rotate such that the buff is turning toward you from over the top. . .which would be counterclockwise if the motor is on your left. For 8" wheels the 3450 is probably too fast, would want a 1725 rpm.

I have a very well made 1" x 8 tpi threaded adapter for the lathe that used to be made by Don Pencil Woodworking. It has imperceptible runout. When I went to a bigger lathe I had to get a 1.25" to 1" adapter to continue using it.

Best,

Dave

[Richard Dooling]

What Dave said.

Also the bearings in many drill presses aren't designed to take much lateral force. This could shorten bearing life if you use it aggressively. I have also popped a Jacob's chuck off it's spindle while using a small drum sander.

[Dan Gaylin]

Thank you both. Very helpful

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I got a cheap Wen 2 speed buffer. If you get a designated buffer, you won't tie up or have to mess around with the lathe to convert back and forth.
The 2 speed feature is nice if you have the bowl buffs and the wheels, as mentioned. I would not use a drill press for many reasons.
Oh, if you use the lathe, you may not be able to easily buff a large bowl as your bed may be in the way. And if you get a buff catch, the bed corner dings your bowl pretty good. DAMHIKT

[Dan Gaylin]

Hi Kyle. That was initially my thought too. But I don’t see a WEN model with two speeds available and the cheaper bench top buffers all seem to have people reporting that they are underpowered and stall.

[Mike Nathal]

I don't think you really need 3000+ rpm. I use the 3 inch buffs all the time at 1725 rpm. I use a stand-alone motor, I think it came from an air handler a long time ago. I mount the wheels on the motor arbor using Beall's adaptor. I mount the motor on a Workmate and there are no clearance issues, there is nothing between the wheel and the floor. I do put a sheet of 1 inch thick foam on the floor just in case the wheel grabs the piece. I also feel there is no need for variable speed. The 8 inch wheel at 1750 rpm is quite stiff, sometimes too aggressive on buffing a film finish. In that case I switch to a 3 or 4 inch wheel which makes the 1750 rpm much less aggressive.

[Thomas Canfield]

An extended shaft that will fit your lathe drive is best and the 3/8" thread on end is for mounting a wheel or buff that uses a 3/8" "bolt". The Bealle buffing wheels are furnished with a 3/8" carriage bolt with slotted head that also works well as a router bit if it makes contact with your piece. I replace the furnished bolt using an elevator bolt, large smooth flat head, using a double locking nut arrangement to lock the bolt to tighten the nut to retain the wheel. I have 1-1/4" shafts in both 8" and 12" lengths from Don Pencil, now not available, and also a 1" thread 8" long for midi lathe. I buff Tripoli at 1800 rpm, and Renaisance wax at 1250 rpm, and variable speed lathes work well, better than separate motor. The longer shafts allow getting inside pieces easier.

[Bernie Kopfer]

I buff Tripoli at 1800 rpm, and Renaisance wax at 1250 rpm, and variable speed lathes work well, better than separate motor. The longer shafts allow getting inside pieces easier.[/QUOTE]

Thomas would you explain any benefit you perceive from buffing Renaissance on the lathe. Do you use a wax coated buffing wheel to apply? Or just buff the hand applied wax with a clean wheel? Are you doing this as a heat method to melt the wax etc? Do you do multiple coats? Thank you for helping.

[Denny Nebgen]

one of these https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCDOWEL.html (which I also use for other things) along with a 5/8 shaft that has a 3/8-16 threaded hole in one end to mount the wheels or bowl pads to.

[Richard Dooling]

FWIW,
I cut down the tubes on an old Shopsmith and use it as a variable speed disc sander and buffing station. They sometimes shoe up on the local Craig's list for low prices.

[Thomas Canfield]

Bernie, I apply the Renaisance wax using a piece of paper towel getting a thin coat that I let dry for a couple of minutes or so before doing a light buff with very soft flannel wheel. No heat involved and the buffing at slower speed helps avoid building up heat.

[Bernie Kopfer]

Bernie, I apply the Renaisance wax using a piece of paper towel getting a thin coat that I let dry for a couple of minutes or so before doing a light buff with very soft flannel wheel. No heat involved and the buffing at slower speed helps avoid building up heat.

Thank you Thomas, I was hoping you had a discovered a unknown until now secret method of applying Renaissance wax to significantly improve its finishing capabilities. But it is good stuff!