Martin T78

[Drew Zembruski]

Hi all,

Does anybody have experience with a Martin T78, their non-tilting arbor saw? I'm looking at an '86 model for my new shop when I move in a few months for a good price ($2,000), but currently thinking through the workarounds needed on the rare occasions I tilt my blade on my current slider. The cost savings are substantial to buy the T78 for my new shop and just sell my existing Martin T71 (300 miles away from my new shop) rather than paying for the rentals or someone else to move it for me.
I'm attracted to the improved dust collection (from what I've heard) as well as the narrower clearance between table and carriage. My current thought is just to keep my cabinet saw on hand for beveling as necessary and putting the Martin on small blocks to flush it up with the SawStop's table so they can sit back to back.

Any and all insight welcome! I love my current Martin and love the idea of getting some cash out of it for an equally stout and well-built saw closer to my new location.

Drew

[Kevin Jenness]

I would have a hard time giving up the bevel capability on my slider, but I do a fair amount of miterfolds. It depends how you work. If you just want to cut square-edged rectangles you can save space (though not money) with a good (Streibig) vertical saw.

[Drew Zembruski]

I would have a hard time giving up the bevel capability on my slider, but I do a fair amount of miterfolds. It depends how you work. If you just want to cut square-edged rectangles you can save space (though not money) with a good (Streibig) vertical saw.

Thanks for your insight Kevin - it’s always very appreciated! I don’t miterfold a ton, but when I do I typically size on my slider and then bevel on the cabinet saw with a sacrificial fence and featherboard. It's a bit slower but I've had a hard time getting clean bevels with my sheets once they start to cup, and I already had the sacrificial fence and featherboard ready to go on the SawStop and never took the time to make the same jig for
the slider. I guess it's a personal question to me, if losing beveling on my slider is worth the cash I'd net. After the move my shop will mostly be for my 'hobbyist' use since I'm going to be working remotely designing and 'engineering' cabinetry for my current employer, a GC. We get CNC cut boxes and site assemble with faceframes / all components purchased from suppliers, since much of our work is in buildings in NYC where fully assembled cabinets are a nightmare to schlep in. My job will be to turn client conversations and designers' drawings into parts the guys can put together and install, so the down shift in my personal bench's output definitely factors in. I'm just trying to balance frugality and short sightedness, I guess.

[Patrick Kane]

I just started a thread on OWWM, because i had never heard of or seen a T78 before. I assume you were watching the IRS auction? It explains why that machine sold for very little, i had no idea it couldnt bevel! I dont often bevel my slider, but man, that is a critical feature if its going to be the only/main saw in your shop. Thats like getting a machine that cant run a groover/dado.

I wish i knew why Martin went T75, T78, T70, T71, T72. The nomenclature of decreasing model numbers is just odd to me.

[Drew Zembruski]

Such a strange nomenclature... I had never heard of the T78 before either! I ended up winning the IRS auction for it for $2,300 and am excited to get it delivered tomorrow. I'm going to put it on small blocks, flush the table height with my SawStop, and have that for dado and bevel purposes when I need them; the saw CAN run the dado stacks I have but I generally prefer the cabinet saw for that anyhow. It'll obviously be a downgrade in functionality from my T71, but it's what makes the most sense given my shop will pretty much have a hobbyist's output for as long as I'm working in my current, computer/management-based role for a GC.

[Patrick Kane]

Oh yeah, great price. Congrats. I watched that one for a week, and was curious, but i dont have any room to store a big saw right now. Also, i couldnt get it into my basement shop. My Felder KF700 fit through the door with about 1/4" to spare. Post some photos and details once you get it in your shop and have time to use it.

I briefly had a T75 in the fall that i quickly sold--not sure id want that machine long term. And, i just sold my T17 last weekend that i had for two years. That saw would be an incredible companion to a more modern slider, but if i could only have one machine it would be a 1990+ 10' slider. I will be curious to know your thoughts between the T71 and the 78. I will have a $10k budget for my next shop, and will be looking at a Martin in that era. I get the impression you want to run for the hills when it comes to buying a used T73 from 2001-2010 with the electronics in those machines.

[Will Boulware]

I wish i knew why Martin went T75, T78, T70, T71, T72. The nomenclature of decreasing model numbers is just odd to me.

It really is an odd system. They're back up to a T77 with their new saw, which is NOTHING like the T78 being discussed. One of these days, those fortune cookie lottery numbers are going to be right, and THEN I'll get to see what all the fuss is about with these things!