Stihl Easy to Start - Isn't

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for all the input. I'm taking it back to the dealer and do as Ken suggested. Larry, I agree, my next will be battery operated. I don't use one much either.

I only pull out the Stihl for the rare need to cut something larger...for the two trees I recently took down, that was essentially the lower trunk. Everything else was cut up with my 20V Bauer pole saw and 10" 20v Bauer chainsaw. Yea, Harbor Freight. Things have come a long way for battery operated outdoor tools, even with the "value" brands.

[Tom M King]

Dave, is that a full line Stihl dealer that sells Pro saws, or just a hardware store that sells the Homeowner line? I don't have a lot of faith in our local hardware store being able to fix much of anything even though they are a Stihl dealer.

[John K Jordan]

Any time I've had the "starts but then dies when the trigger is pulled" issue with my MS290, it's been because i, um...tighten the chain up too much or the sprocket in the end of the bar was clogged up.

Before starting I always move the chain by hand to make sure it’s free and the tension is good. Besides overtightening or a bound sprocket, clutch/brake, or bound sprocketnose tip there are some other things that can prevent a chain from moving freely.

One is a tight groove in the chain bar, perhaps due to binding during a cut. This can be spread with a screwdriver. Also, the groove should be cleaned out regularly.

Off the topic of a bound chain but worth mentioning: a “sloppy” groove where the chain can be wobbled left and right in the groove. Check for inside wear that can angle the normally vertical side in the groove - this can be due to so much wear on the outside of the top of the groove that the chain drive links are bottoming out in the groove. In this case, the bar should be replaced.

If the groove is deep enough but simply too loose it can be tightened. I bought a groove tightener tool which uses rollers to squeeze the sides inwards for a good fit, like this one: https://forestershop.com/bar-rail-cl...xoC3Q0QAvD_BwE
I’ve only had to use it a couple of times so one it’s probably not worth buying one for home use but a good chainsaw maintenance shop might have one.

For those who don’t know, it’s a good idea to flip the bar over occasionally to even out wear on the top and bottom. I do this every time I remove a chain to sharpen or change.

There are other things about the bar that are worth knowing about. Lots of resources on the web; here is one:
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_bar_maint.htm

Ok, I’m an admitted chain saw geek. At times I use these saws a LOT.

JKJ

[Dave Fritz]

Tom, it is a full service shop. https://ritchiesinc.stihldealer.net/

Jim, I think you hit the nail on the head. I removed the bar and chain and started the saw and it ran fine. Now I need to clean things up and give it a shot.

[Tom M King]

Glad it was something simple.