Originally Posted by
Patrick Kane
I first noticed TBIII and heat 7-8 years ago when i made end grain cutting boards to pay for shop tools. I took a cutting board to the office with me, which was closer to the buyer. After sitting in my hatchback's trunk in the summer heat, i saw some of the gluelines separate ever so slightly on the edges of the board. I still use a bunch of TBIII, but i know its not ideal in exterior conditions involving the sun. I have no experience with weldwood or similar unibond. I avoided them in the past due to health risks. Ill have to break that rule this time around.
I ordered the book last night and look forward to the read. I dont think there is a problem going thicker than 1.75". Why would you not use stave core with utile/sapele? Are you saying the lumber itself is stable enough on its own to not require the effort of ripping and gluing? Im very inclined to stick to solid wood, if i can. To the point where i will buy extra lumber to allow me the chance to mill and let it sticker for awhile to see if it moves much before constructing the door. Thanks for the advice on Utile. It looks very similar to Sapele to me, but if its more stable outside then im all for it. I think the price is very similar.
I have three different sets of steel body insert cabinet cope/stick profiles. Two ogees and a shaker set. I then have a couple panel raisers. Has anyone used cabinet sets before for entry doors? Was it acceptable or was the profile underwhelming looking? Anything less than the $2500 Rangate set that you would recommend? I have a Felder 700 class shaper, so i dont want to spin absolutely massive tooling. Also, ill use floating M&T, so i dont need to make integral tenons.