Does anybody know how well (if at all) threaded inserts will work in MDF?
Does anybody know how well (if at all) threaded inserts will work in MDF?
Use the fence Luke
Not particularly good, the 'fibers' lift out.
on patwarner's site, and in his books he taps it with a coarse thread.
Sharpening skills, the plane truth.
Ask anyone that has bought Wal-mart furniture.
My guess is not very well.
I use 'em when I need to for jigs etc. Wouldn't use them in furniture. Whenever possible I put the insert on the back of the board so that the thing has to be pulled through. I would not bother using on the edge of board as the fibers seperate much too easily. What is your application?
My CMS is anchored with four 1/4-20 bolts into inserts in the 1" melamine top of a rolling cabinet. No problems so far (6 years)...and I use the handle on the saw to push/pull the cabinet around the garage.
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"Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
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http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/54681-lg.jpg
Stole this off Dave Dukes Thread,
I've had good luck with these in MDF
T nuts have also worked
TJH
Live Like You Mean It.
http://www.northhouse.org/
I've used T-nuts and corse thread inserts for feet on speakers and both work okay. You just have to be careful when inserting so the board doesn't flake apart. Also be careful when drilling the holes and use a sacrificial piece on the backside so you don't blow it out.
Not sure if that pertains all that well to your question, but take it FWIW.
I would use epoxy to help hold the inserts in place, I would also use CA glue on the threads or striped threads in wood. Make the wood swell a bit, and makes it much stronger. These are both old R/C air plane builders tricks.
Scott
Me too.Originally Posted by Ian Barley
Tyler shows some nice nuts in his link also.
Frank
Try countersinking the insert edge slightly to help minimize/prevent fiber tear-out.
I have them in the top of my cantilevered miter station to hold both my Kreg jig and my Leigh dovetail jig. No problems with durability, although they were harder to get started and in straight just due to the way that the MDF "flakes". A slightly larger (but still snug) pilot hole combined with epoxy would probably be better than how I did them "dry".
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
I have used them in MDF for jigs and other applications. As with wood screws in MDF, I drill a over size hole and glue a poplar plug into the hole then drill out the plug the appropriate size to accomidate the insert or the screw. Make sure you allow the glue to set up first. Make your own plugs and do not use dowells as you will be drilling into end grain.
Last edited by Don Selke; 01-23-2006 at 11:33 PM.
Good Luck:
Don Selke
Julius A. Dooman & Son Woodworking
My Mentor, My teacher. "Gone but not forgotton"
I need to fix T-nuts into my router table top of MDF. Today I made an experiment with a scrap piece of MDF and hammered the T-nut into the MDF plate. I couldn't get it complete in, and when I took it apart for inspection, I noted that the four self-gripping prongs of the T-nut were bent. I wonder whether it would not be better to saw away the four prongs altogether and then epoxy the T-nut into the MDF? Has anybody tried that? On the other hand, I am a little scared by the perspective of getting epoxy into the threads...
Here's a picture of the type of T-nut I am talking about:
Thanks for the feedback y'all. I haven't been able to stop by here much lately except from work (which aint too cool). My laptop got sent in to have the motherboard replaced a week ago Saturday, and it will probably be another week before I get it back. The power cord developed a short which continually had to be wiggled/bent into a position so power was getting to the machine. Appararently this wiggling eventually snapped the PS jack off the MB and there was no way to get power to it.
Anyway, my application for the inserts was going to have force potentially trying to pull the inserts out of the MDF across 2 halves of a jig used to clamp some wood in-between, so I ended up finding some cross-dowels (barrel nuts) that should work out better.
Must not be my month for electronic stuff, as the power switch on my 4-month old MM16 BS seems to have given up the ghost this weekend. Doesn't seem to be an issue with the micro-switches on the doors or brake, so I need to give those guys a call when I get home today.
Use the fence Luke