20" Disc Sander or a 6" Edge Sander?

[Aaron Inami]

I took an even closer look at the Baileigh ES-6100. It appears that the machine is definitely a copy of the Hammer HS-950. It even oscillates the belt using the same mechanism. It's not a 100% copy, though. There are several items where the Hammer HS-950 is better:

- Better table height adjustment - only one clamp to loosen and table remains perfectly level as you adjust up and down (this is important when the platen is adjusted down at an angle). Baileigh requires two clamp knobs and you need to make sure to keep the table perfectly level when adjusting up and down.
- Better dust collection. Hammer essentially has a 5" dust port (120mm). Baileigh has 4" dust port.
- Better motor. Hammer has a 3HP 2.2kw 12.4A (based on motor plate). Beileigh specifications say 2HP 1.5kw 9.5A.
- More stable stand? Hammer base/stand extends to the full width/length of the machine. Baileigh stand is smaller.
- Better miter gauge (although you have to buy this extra, the miter gauge is much better than what comes with the Baileigh).

There may be several other things on the Hammer that just "feel" better, but I haven't used the Baileigh so I can't comment. So, Hammer is a better machine, but you are going to spend about a $1,000 more (especially when you add in the accessory miter gauge).

That being said, a couple of points for the Baileigh:
- Has an edge support shoe that can be mounted to the table for edge support when using the sander fully 0 degrees flat
- Has a bit of storage available in the base (although you could build your own storage base on the Hammer.

I built my own front frame and floor for the Hammer base so that I could use it to store sanding belts, miter gauge, etc. I also mounted some 4" GBL locking casters for mobility (these work very well):
HS_950_storage.jpg


If the Hammer HS-950 is not in your budget, I would probably recommend the Baileigh ES-6100 as the next option. This is a significantly better machine than the other low end clones (Jet, Oliver, Powermatic 13, Laguna, Grizzly, etc.).

[Terry Therneau]

I use my edge sander on nearly every project. The statement "one of the last tools a woodworker buys, and one of the last he sells" is certainly true in my case.
Mine is smaller Ekstrom-Carlson 111 (80" belt), which is all the space I have for it in my shop. (Cast iron body and platen -- 425 lbs).

Terry T

[Keegan Shields]

Thanks for all of the info! You’ve convinced me that an edge sander would be the better option and I’ll definitely keep an eye out for a used edge sander in my area. I also plan to inspect the platen as this seems to be the critical component for accurate performance.

Now I need to figure out where I can put it…

[Warren Lake]

you want the platten flat and think on the progress its at least 1/2" thick. Simple machine but works fine. Had their stroke and wasn't happy so got Italian and much better. The graphite on them will compress and get distorted if its been used lots but its easy and cheap to replace. If someone has done lots of sanding on the rubber drum end it may be deformed. Put a straight edge on that with no belt on the machine and see what shape it is. Mine was concave so I stuck auto body sandpaper onto a block made it flat then very slight crown. Tracking was way better after that. No big deal just wear from people sanding on that hard rubber wheel side. Great for inside work.

[Aaron Inami]

I use my edge sander on nearly every project. The statement "one of the last tools a woodworker buys, and one of the last he sells" is certainly true in my case.
Mine is smaller Ekstrom-Carlson 111 (80" belt), which is all the space I have for it in my shop. (Cast iron body and platen -- 425 lbs).

Terry T

Hah, that's like a benchtop version of an Oakley H5! lol. 1,500 lbs.

[Aaron Inami]

Thanks for all of the info! You’ve convinced me that an edge sander would be the better option and I’ll definitely keep an eye out for a used edge sander in my area. I also plan to inspect the platen as this seems to be the critical component for accurate performance.

Now I need to figure out where I can put it…

Here's an excellent video showing the problems/compromises that the Jet edge sander (and relative Laguna/Oliver/Powermatic clones). I would recommend watching it so that you know what their challenges are. This isn't a reason not to buy one if you're budget is limited, but you should know ahead of time what to expect:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnwT4bapcXU

Also, like Warren has said, you should keep an eye on the graphite pad that is applied to the surface of the platen. These can wear down in spots and cause concave indentations that produce inaccuracies in your sanding. The OEM pads can sometimes be very expensive, but you can get them aftermarket for about $10 a yard:

https://www.amazon.com/Magnate-G6X5Y.../dp/B004RJBHHU

[Dave Cav]

I have an Acme edger and an Apex 20" disk. If I found a 20" disk sander and didn't have one, I would find room for it. They aren't that big. I drove from Northern Utah to Phoenix to pick up mine, and they don't come up very often. That being said if I could only have one, I'd keep the edger.

The reason big disk sanders don't come up very often is probably because they were largely a patternmaker's tool, which wasn't nearly as big an industry as furniture and cabinetmaking, where edgers are mostly used.

[Mel Fulks]

I would get disk sander. They can shape quickly across from capable hands, and everybody else needs to be told they will be fired if get
near them. The edge sanders are often toys for employees doing on the clock amusement.

[Roger Feeley]

Question about the 20” disc sander. I have a 12” and would like it if it was variable speed. The outside edge moves too fast for some materials. The 20” disk would way too fast for me.

do they make speed controllers for these things?

[Aaron Inami]

Attaching pics here as reference for another creeker, since it relates to this whole thread.

Built a custom base with storage using the stock side and rear panels. Used these 4" GBL casters. They are very nice:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7HBXJS/

1-1/4" bottom board to increase bottom weight. Mounting wheels. Used washer in between the caster plate and the wood so that it would be level:
HS_950_mounting_wheel.jpg HS_950_wheels_mounted.jpg

What it looks like finished. Added a hanger for the miter gauge:
HS_950_Base_Wheels.jpg

There are several people who have made their own custom bases for this HS 950. But one mistake they make is they make a 5-sided box, with a board on top. This prevents you from accessing the wiring and electronics inside the top if something goes wrong. In my case, since I used the stock rear panel, I can remove it anytime and I left the top area open for complete access.

[Bill Dufour]

Question about the 20” disc sander. I have a 12” and would like it if it was variable speed. The outside edge moves too fast for some materials. The 20” disk would way too fast for me.

do they make speed controllers for these things?

Get one with a three phase motor and use a VFD.
Bill D

[Robert Hayward]

Get one with a three phase motor and use a VFD.
Bill D

I have regretted not doing that almost as long as I have had my 20" disc sander. With 3 phase the motor would have been reversible and I would have had variable speed with the VFD.

[Aaron Inami]

I picked the Hammer HS950 for several reasons. One of the main ones was the ability to tilt the angle all the way down to 0 degrees (most edge sanders only tilt to 45 degrees). Although this HS950 does come in 3-pahse, it requires 400V 3-phase which is another challenge that a VFD will not automatically satisfy.

[Alex Zeller]

Question about the 20” disc sander. I have a 12” and would like it if it was variable speed. The outside edge moves too fast for some materials. The 20” disk would way too fast for me.

do they make speed controllers for these things?

Get one with a three phase motor and use a VFD.
Bill D

I think I posted earlier that I use a wood lathe. Having variable speed is almost a must. If I had a stand alone 20" (or larger) disc sander I would put a VFD on it in a heartbeat. But you'll want to look into using a braking resistor when shutting it off. With my setup if I turn the speed down too quickly it doesn't like it at all. But my lathe has built into it to shut down the VFD (just in case you have a large chuck of wood and just turn it off) to protect it.

[Bill Dufour]

Be careful about braking resistor wiring. Many cheap VFD's and, at least one of mine, have the brake resistor wire terminals but... They are just for show. Look at the back of the circuit board and there are no wiring traces to those terminal screw posts. In truth they would need real wires not just traces to handle the power loads without burning up.
BilL D