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Thread: Miter Saw Stand Suggestions

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,910
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Rozmiarek View Post
    That looks pretty sweet Jim! I like how they tied the halves together. One benefit of the built on site rigs is like Wes mentioned, nice to just leave it outside and know that no sane person is going to walk off with it. That Cut Hub beauty might attract the wrong crowd though...
    Kyle of RR Buildings uses one of these things which is why it caught my eye. Not for me, but for a pro crew who needs to set up on-site for quality work. Kyle has a pretty big one that supports both mitering/cutoff as well as ripping support with a portable table saw, etc.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NE Connecticut
    Posts
    695
    I used to have the Bosch gravity rise. The stand itself is very nice and definitely makes it easy to move the saw around. The supports and stops are all but useless, though.

    Youtuber Spencer Lewis has a great channel for mainly trim and finish carpentry. Here is an episode where he describes making custom wings for his stand. You're probably not going to get better than this for less than a few thousand dollars.


  3. #18
    Another vote for the Bosch gravity rise. As others have mentioned if you are trying to cut six inches off the end of a ten foot board you will need additional support but what would you expect from a portable stand? The Bosch is solid (and heavy) while setting up and breaking down in mere seconds.

    Mine is new and I haven't tried loading it in and out of my van yet. The saw can be removed quickly so I have two sixty pound items to lift into the back. I may try to devise a plywood sled that would allow me to slide it in and out as a one piece unit. That is to be determined depending on how often I move it.

  4. #19
    Here's my on-the-job set up. The design was in Fine Homebuilding years ago when it was put out by tradesmen. It's made from one sheet of 1/2" plywood plus a few 3/4" ply blocks. 8' long overall and the tables are 17" wide. Bulky but pretty light. On the long side the table is 4 1/2' from the blade, enough to hold up 10 or 12' lumber or a full length of trim.
    The key elements are that the saw is not fastened down, has room on either side, and no fences. For carpentry stop blocks are generally a waste of time, IMO, and if necessary the saw can be wedged to one side. For accurate cuts, you wrap your hand around the stock and press it against the side of the chopsaw table, and creep up to the cut line if necessary. This keeps control of the stock, and the hand solidly away from the blade. The gaps also leave a place for offcuts, and small tools.

    Pics from 2009, and current. Made circa 1990. P1000327.jpgIMG_3572.jpgIMG_3573.jpg

    I also have a Dewalt slider and stand. I agree that the stand is not great. I've made it so a plywood panel clamps to the stand, and the saw sits on that, and some small flat panels on the outriggers. This at least gives a place to put stuff down- a glaring problem with that type of stand.

    In the shop there is just the saw with a support on one side and a fold down one on the other.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    840
    That's way too fancy for construction. But moveable ...

    20221015_142257.jpg

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
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    4,680
    While we're showing site built, here is a quick and low stock usage one I whipped up a few years ago. Took it apart and used it for blocking later in the project.

    ms stand.jpg

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Rozmiarek View Post
    While we're showing site built, here is a quick and low stock usage one I whipped up a few years ago. Took it apart and used it for blocking later in the project.

    ms stand.jpg

    Nice! character character

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Piercefield, NY
    Posts
    1,696
    D7C05AEC-6902-4215-B369-A28EB1D5A8B8.jpgACE74E19-80E8-4477-83EA-BAF6E985DFBB.jpgThis is what I used to make repeated 12', 8, and 4' cuts from rough cut 1x8x12 this spring. Once I had the first two rows of boards down I didn't have to do any more measuring on that floor.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Mountain City, TN
    Posts
    573
    I made mine out of 1x6 material. Light and cheap. It sits on a couple of sawhorses. I don't worry about anyone taking it or if it gets rained on.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
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    7,298
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    I built one using heavy extrusions from 8020. Added a fence from JA Dawley.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #26
    I recently invested in the FastCap Best Fence D4 with the flat extrusion for my Dewalt miter saw & Dewalt miter stand. Not cheap, but so far I think it'll be good for my needs.
    https://www.fastcap.com/product/best...tem-for-dewalt

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    4,680
    That looks pretty good Ken. It's not big enough for the carpenter stuff, but interesting for smaller components.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Kortge View Post
    I recently invested in the FastCap Best Fence D4 with the flat extrusion for my Dewalt miter saw & Dewalt miter stand. Not cheap, but so far I think it'll be good for my needs.
    https://www.fastcap.com/product/best...tem-for-dewalt

  13. #28
    If you need more length, you can buy another 64" extruded table and connect it using a Best Fence Male to Male Connector and a FastCap Upper Hand stand.
    https://youtu.be/e7CvDKRK-G4

    They also have several other accessories that connect to the tables.
    https://www.fastcap.com/products/best-fence-pro

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    4,680
    That does look like a nice solution, I'll definitely consider it next time I'm looking.

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