Resaw King, Necessary?

[John Kananis]

Are the Laguna Resaw King Carbide blades necessary for any type of longevity cutting wet wood? I've gone through a few Timberwolf and Proforce (Laguna brand) very quickly on some small cherry logs. The half inch blades last a log or 2 and the 3/4 not much longer. Both widths at 3tpi, 115" length.

[Edward Weber]

Are the Laguna Resaw King Carbide blades necessary for any type of longevity cutting wet wood? I've gone through a few Timberwolf and Proforce (Laguna brand) very quickly on some small cherry logs. The half inch blades last a log or 2 and the 3/4 not much longer. Both widths at 3tpi, 115" length.

How much is a log or two?

[Richard Coers]

From what I read, the Resaw King has very little set in the teeth and takes more effort to push the wood through. NOT what you want for wet wood. I buy 3/4" sawmill blades that have less than 1 tooth per inch. Lots of set and not smooth cutting, but it flies through wet wood. They are very reasonable and can be sent back for a quick sharpening. These are blades designed for what you are doing. You are not resawing.

[John Kananis]

How much is a log or two?

8 inch wide by 10 our 12 inches long

From what I read, the Resaw King has very little set in the teeth and takes more effort to push the wood through. NOT what you want for wet wood. I buy 3/4" sawmill blades that have less than 1 tooth per inch. Lots of set and not smooth cutting, but it flies through wet wood. They are very reasonable and can be sent back for a quick sharpening. These are blades designed for what you are doing. You are not resawing.

That's pretty aggressive. Where do you get those?

[Edward Weber]

8 inch wide by 10 our 12 inches long

So are you saying you can only cut a few linear feet before your blades get dull?
Something doesn't sound right

[Dwight Rutherford]

I use “Lenox” blades, 3TPI from bandsawbladesdirect . They last for a long time!

https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/band-saw-blades?gclid=CjwKCAjw2OiaBhBSEiwAh2ZSP9pZSLud32wIj Yn__uDgxd6sL7l37upYPxi4LmG8NJ9ieXP2szmPCxoC6qQQAvD _BwE

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Dirty bark?

[Neil Strong]

I use bi-metal blades (I think with with M42 teeth) that I resharpen myself. You can do that many times before replacing them. You need diamond wheels for carbide and the issue there is you are limited in the profiles available that will match your tooth profile, whereas HSS will sharpen with Alox wheels that can be profiled by yourself (with diamond) to suit your tooth profile.

Blade on sharpener.jpg

[Alex Zeller]

I process my blanks a little differently than others here. I use my chainsaw to remove the pith from the log and then my bandsaw to cut the blanks round. I started off with using blades from Highland and they would only last a couple of blanks before I would have to push pretty hard. That, of course, made the blade want to wander. It wasn't until I upgraded bandsaws that I bought Lenox bimetal blades. The difference is night and day. I use a 1/2" DieMaster 2 3 tpi and it cuts right through 10" blanks with almost no pressure. I've probably cut over 100 blanks now (along with plenty of dry hardwood) and it doesn't feel like it's dulled at all. Like the others have said, try a bimetal blade.

[John Kananis]

Thanks everyone, I'll pick up a couple Lenox blades and see how they run.

[Peter Blair]

I resharpen with a dremel and diamond cutter while on the saw. Can do this many times before removing all the set and having to toss the blade out.

[Reed Gray]

When I got my first bandsaw, a friend told me to go to a local place that will make blades for me. They asked me what I do, and I told them about turning and maybe resawing boards. They recommended the Lennox bimetal blades. When I asked about carbide, they told me they are for cutting veneers. I did try one out, also a Lennox blade, and while I could get surfaces that would need almost no sanding, they dulled in about the same amount of cutting time that the bimetal blades did, and the carbide tips on them were so small, they could not be resharpened.

robo hippy

[John Kananis]

Hi Reed, so what do you use?

When I got my first bandsaw, a friend told me to go to a local place that will make blades for me. They asked me what I do, and I told them about turning and maybe resawing boards. They recommended the Lennox bimetal blades. When I asked about carbide, they told me they are for cutting veneers. I did try one out, also a Lennox blade, and while I could get surfaces that would need almost no sanding, they dulled in about the same amount of cutting time that the bimetal blades did, and the carbide tips on them were so small, they could not be resharpened.

robo hippy

[John Kananis]

I'm looking at those Lennox blades. I assume I'm getting the "Classic" bimetal for wood at about 55 bucks for the 3/4 3tpi?

Some of those options are really expensive, more so than the Resaw King blades. I priced a 1/2 inch 3tpi blade at 223 dollars. Wow. Worth it?

[Richard Coers]

8 inch wide by 10 our 12 inches long



That's pretty aggressive. Where do you get those?

I can't find the company that made my blades right now. Here is an option, Lennox Woodmaster C. Around $25. https://bandsawoutlet.com/woodmaster-c/