Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Help with fitting tenon in round stock mortise

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Paros, Greece
    Posts
    31

    Help with fitting tenon in round stock mortise

    Hello to everyone

    Recently I got a commission for a bed frame that it's going ti have φ50mm legs and mortise tenon joints.

    What I usually do is to cut a recess around mortise to fit the flat end gain around the tenon.

    This won't be possible in this case so I'm looking for a way to get the end grain curved around the tenon.

    I've found only 1 video on YouTube that uses a nice setup but I can't figure out what type of router cutter is used.

    You can check it here at 4:35

    https://youtu.be/TbW32wDRn1I



    Do you have idea how it can be done?
    I don't have any sweep gouges to carve it by hand, also I would prefer a machine setup for repeatability.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    Michael, I think the technique you are looking for is to cope the leg and stretcher. I have an article on this when building a Hans Wegner chair, here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...8Part2%29.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    666
    Michail,

    The video you posted is the only machined cope I've seen and was the video I was going to recommend.

    If I needed to do a run of chairs with this joint, I would probably try routing a flat bottomed recess for the tenon shoulder.

    Should be a pretty simple router jig where you use the mortise to index the leg to the top of the jig, plunge and route the recessed shoulder, then square the corners of the recess.

    I think I've seen this in a YouTube video. If I can find it, I'll post it.

    Hope that helps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    Keegan just beat me to it. Here is a build of mine where I flatten the entry to the mortice instead of coping the tenon ...

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...feeTable6.html

    The shoulder of the mortice is levelled with a chisel and rasp ..





    ... until each is a good fit ..








    Hope this helps.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,426
    Derek, I'm not finding the complete build on your site and I'm very curious how you shaped the inside and outside corners on that top.

    Michail, I think recessing is your best option.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,327
    Here’s a way to do what the OP wants…
    Use a loose tenon. The first step is to cut the mortise in the apron. Then find a drill bit the diameter of the round post which is the leg. Clamp the apron in a drill press, and drill down along the end of the apron. You’ve just formed the curved shoulders of the M&T joint. Glue the loose tenon into the mortise in the apron. Presto you have an apron with a tenon sticking out the end, and shoulders which match the cylindrical leg.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    Quote Originally Posted by John Kananis View Post
    Derek, I'm not finding the complete build on your site and I'm very curious how you shaped the inside and outside corners on that top.

    Michail, I think recessing is your best option.
    John, the complete build (and others) is on this index page: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html

    Scan down the page to “Coffee table for my nephew”. There are several chapters.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #8
    I think the OP is looking for this type of router bit
    https://www.cooksonhardware.com/prod...Ovolo-10mm-Rad

    There are several methods for making this joint

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    The issue you will have with router bits is that they need to match the leg circumference. They may be too big an ask. Hence they are handcut.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    The issue you will have with router bits is that they need to match the leg circumference. They may be too big an ask. Hence they are handcut.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

    If you start with the bit, you match the diameter of the leg to the radius of the bit. This is no different from using a floating tenon and matching the drill bit size to the leg or vise-versa.
    Here is an example of the floating method

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfIVxp_YHtw

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    666
    Yep that’s a great idea!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,301
    Blog Entries
    7
    Need an undercutting bit with a radius. I end up doing stuff like this fairly often where I will plan parts around common bit sizes.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,409
    You can grind a router bit to the size and shape that you need, it's not that hard to do.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •