My experience is the same as Jonathan's - a 60 tooth blade in a 12" miter saw cuts with less deflection than one with more teeth. Noticeably and consistently better. At least in my Bosch non-slider.
John
Contributor
My experience is the same as Jonathan's - a 60 tooth blade in a 12" miter saw cuts with less deflection than one with more teeth. Noticeably and consistently better. At least in my Bosch non-slider.
John
Contributor
[QUOTE=Jacques Gagnon;3220601]I have had good success with a circular saw, sharp blade and a shop-made « cutting jig ». The jig is a piece of MDF or plywood with a fence that produces the equivalent of a track saw. (If desired you can place a cleat underneath to give you a perpendicular positioning). Scribe the desired cut line and place the edge of the jig exactly over it. Run the saw…et voilà!
What Jacques has described is my go-to method of cutting and squaring material that is dimensionally to challenging for my table saw. I have 3 different sized jigs at ready, which work equally as well with my router on the opposing side of the fence. (shop made track saw)
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Swanson speed squares make a handy 90° fence for a circular saw. I wrote the offset distance from the left side of my saw's base plate to the blade in sharpie on the guard. Just mark the line accordingly.
Contributor
For just a couple, I'd use a hand powered mitersaw. I know everybody has an old wood miter box somewhere in the shop. I'd also want to make sure those long boards are straight along their whole length.
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Do not undervalue the old radial arm saw. With a long table they are made to cut long pieces. If you have the room you can buy use craftsman radial arm saws for $100.Originally Posted by John TenEyck
For a couple hundred dollars you can have one of these. You'll never worry about square (and many other) cuts again.
John
Ask a woodworker to "make your bed" and he/she makes a bed.
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