Dewalt 735 height adjustment travel issue

[Brian Runau]

I opened the top and I must have run the planer without the dust collect port open. Full of saw dust. Took off the shroud and cleaned everything out and even used a tooth brush to clean around the sprockets I could reach. There is one post/sprocket behind the motor that I can't get too and when I lower it, it will not let me go below 1-1/2". I am assuming I have crap built up in the corner not letting it lower all the way.

I have the chain covers on each side off for the rollers and the chain for the height adjust travels, although with some resistance. Do I remove the motor from the inside or is there a way to leave it in place and remove the yellow cover around it to clean it out?

Thanks.

Brian

[Jerry Bruette]

Can you blow it out with compressed air?

[Steve Eure]

Word of advise from someone with experience. DOT NOT try and continue to crank it to get it to move. You probably have debris in and around the sprocket. If you try and force it, it will jump timing. You will then have to release the tension, and re-time the height adjustment chain. Not a fun job,, but do-able. Best thing to do is get to the sprockets and chain and clean. Good luck.

[Brian Runau]

Word of advise from someone with experience. DOT NOT try and continue to crank it to get it to move. You probably have debris in and around the sprocket. If you try and force it, it will jump timing. You will then have to release the tension, and re-time the height adjustment chain. Not a fun job,, but do-able. Best thing to do is get to the sprockets and chain and clean. Good luck.

Got them clean lubed everything, but I did force it before hand. Goes down now, but @ 2" very hard to crank upwards. 12-14 years old been a good machine, but I think I'm done spending time on it. thanks brian

[Brian Runau]

Word of advise from someone with experience. DOT NOT try and continue to crank it to get it to move. You probably have debris in and around the sprocket. If you try and force it, it will jump timing. You will then have to release the tension, and re-time the height adjustment chain. Not a fun job,, but do-able. Best thing to do is get to the sprockets and chain and clean. Good luck.

Steve, against my better judgement I took this apart this morning. The nut and washer on top of the sprocket remind me of the nut and washer used in an SAF bearing install. Could you share your expertise on how I should go about resetting the timing? I assume loosen the washer tang and back off the locknut to free up the tension in the system. Clean it like the devil etc...

Appreciate your time. Thanks Brian

DW735.jpg

[Jim Morgan]

There is an idler near the front of the 735 that tensions the chain. Loosen or remove that, and you will be able to remove the chain. I would not mess with the nuts you show in your photo, if I were you. You might also find it useful to turn the planer upside down & lubricate the posts from that vantage. Mine was squeaking and groaning and moving with resistance; with some upside-down lubrication combined with cranking the head up & down a few times, it now moves smoothly.

[Brian Runau]

There is an idler near the front of the 735 that tensions the chain. Loosen or remove that, and you will be able to remove the chain. I would not mess with the nuts you show in your photo, if I were you. You might also find it useful to turn the planer upside down & lubricate the posts from that vantage. Mine was squeaking and groaning and moving with resistance; with some upside-down lubrication combined with cranking the head up & down a few times, it now moves smoothly.

It's not the chain drive. Moves fine to a point then binds ups. No missing teeth on sprockets. I forced it up when shouldn't have. I think some how I have preloaded the ball screw bearings. Thanks brian

[Jerry Bruette]

Looking at the parts breakdown it could very well be a ball screw assembly and you may have gotten some gunk inside the ball screw. I wouldn't take the ball screw apart though, unless you like chasing ball bearings all over the shop.

The break down shows the sprocket being keyed to the nut and held in place by the tabbed locking washer/shaft nut assembly.

Inside the screw assembly there are some thrust bearings. Maybe one of the bearings is funked up and giving you trouble.

I would think you'd time the height adjustment by taking the chain off and turning the threaded shafts to get the proper height on each corner. If that is the case be sure you are turning all the screws in the same direction up/down so you don't have to worry about backlash in the threads when you put the chain back on. Good Luck.

[Brian Runau]

I owe James an apology, it is based on the chain drive. Loose chain is allowing for misalignment of the vertical ball screws. Design is such that the chain tension keeps the vertical posts in alignment.

Thanks. Brian

https://amymakesstuff.com/2016/03/27/fixing-a-dewalt-dw375-planer/

[Brian Runau]

Looking at the parts breakdown it could very well be a ball screw assembly and you may have gotten some gunk inside the ball screw. I wouldn't take the ball screw apart though, unless you like chasing ball bearings all over the shop.

The break down shows the sprocket being keyed to the nut and held in place by the tabbed locking washer/shaft nut assembly.

Inside the screw assembly there are some thrust bearings. Maybe one of the bearings is funked up and giving you trouble.

I would think you'd time the height adjustment by taking the chain off and turning the threaded shafts to get the proper height on each corner. If that is the case be sure you are turning all the screws in the same direction up/down so you don't have to worry about backlash in the threads when you put the chain back on. Good Luck.

Jerry, agreed. I used to sell linear bearings and ball screws as a factory salesman for THK. I was diagnosing the preload and misalignment, but this article helps me figure out the design of the system is that the chain tension keeps the post aligned for proper travel per you final comments.

Thanks.

Brian

https://amymakesstuff.com/2016/03/27...-dw375-planer/

[Steve Eure]

Brian, what I had to do was to remove the chain, then rotate each sprocket on each post to the same height. I used a dial indicator to do this. You can use any type of measuring tool as long as they all measure approx. the same, Replace the chain and you should be able to get it to work. I hape this helps. After I did mine, it worked as brand new,

[Brian Runau]

Brian, what I had to do was to remove the chain, then rotate each sprocket on each post to the same height. I used a dial indicator to do this. You can use any type of measuring tool as long as they all measure approx. the same, Replace the chain and you should be able to get it to work. I hape this helps. After I did mine, it worked as brand new,

Steve:

Good morning,. I removed the chain. All my posts were tight against the base. I cleaned everything well, installed the chain carriage moved all the way to the top. When it was at the top, two of the bearing assemblies were short of the top of the post. I leveled all four with the top of the posts. Waxed the ball screw and lowered it to the bottom. When I tried to raise it again, this time it locked up like it had been doing. I could not figure out how to remove the lock nut and tanged lock washer. Lock nut just rotated with the ball screw bearing assembly. next though is to turn it upside down, remove the based and see if I can l remove screws in the ball screws in the flanged bottom of the ball screw bearing rotate the flange to loose the preload a little and reinstall the screws. Want to buy a used planer? Kidding. Brian

[Jerry Bruette]

You could wrap the chain around the sprocket and use it to keep the ball screw assembly from turning. A second set of hands would be helpful.

I think you need to determine of the recirculating balls or the thrust bearing is hanging up.

When retiming the screws I wouldn't run them all the way up or down, you don't have a way to determine the preload you will be applying. I think I would place the bearing assemblies midway and measure with a dial indicator or measure with a caliper.

[Brian Runau]

You could wrap the chain around the sprocket and use it to keep the ball screw assembly from turning. A second set of hands would be helpful.

I think you need to determine of the recirculating balls or the thrust bearing is hanging up.

When retiming the screws I wouldn't run them all the way up or down, you don't have a way to determine the preload you will be applying. I think I would place the bearing assemblies midway and measure with a dial indicator or measure with a caliper.

Jerry, thanks. If I run it down say half way, measure from where to where? Thanks Brian

[Jon Grider]

Brian, what I had to do was to remove the chain, then rotate each sprocket on each post to the same height. I used a dial indicator to do this. You can use any type of measuring tool as long as they all measure approx. the same, Replace the chain and you should be able to get it to work. I hape this helps. After I did mine, it worked as brand new,

I did the same as Steve. I had a recurring problem with chips inside the top housing. Apparently the dust shroud on the 735 can distort and lead to leaks. The chips collect near the chain and sprocket interface. If you have this issue again, perhaps a new shroud is in order.