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Thread: Carbon method for rust prevention - any good?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NE Iowa
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    1,248
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Drew View Post
    I subscribe to this guy's channel. Just watched that video a couple days ago. I especially liked his method of cleaning the cast iron. I supose time will tell if the carbon treatment is worth it or not...... I'd use it if it lasts a few months.
    I have used his method for cleaning once in a while. It certainly works, but it is not gentle on your ROS. The WD40 + Scotchbrite creates a paste of oil and fine cast ion particles, and it WILL get into the sander, and if it gets on your next wood project, the staining will not please you. Cleaning it so you can use the sander again for wood projects is a chore, to me. I pretty much quit doing it for this reason, and because, frankly, my cast iron surfaces just get restained right away anyway, and I really don't care, as long as they don't stain wood and glide well. But if I were to use this method in future, I'd get a cheap ROS for the purpose. I sure as heck wouldn't use a high-end tool like his Festool, and suck the stuff with a dust collector.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    10,055
    Sucking a flammable solvent with a brush type motor in the sander and the vac is not a safe idea. Reminds me of the old story about the shade tree mechanic who used a shop vac to prime his carburetor by pulling a vacuum from the tailpipe.
    Bill D

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    711
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Demuth View Post
    I have used his method for cleaning once in a while. It certainly works, but it is not gentle on your ROS. The WD40 + Scotchbrite creates a paste of oil and fine cast ion particles, and it WILL get into the sander, and if it gets on your next wood project, the staining will not please you. Cleaning it so you can use the sander again for wood projects is a chore, to me. I pretty much quit doing it for this reason, and because, frankly, my cast iron surfaces just get restained right away anyway, and I really don't care, as long as they don't stain wood and glide well. But if I were to use this method in future, I'd get a cheap ROS for the purpose. I sure as heck wouldn't use a high-end tool like his Festool, and suck the stuff with a dust collector.
    I was wondering about that. I figured I'd just use one of my older sanders that I don't use much anymore. Just designate it as a table top sander...... I don't see much point in using a dust collector either.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    153
    Quote Originally Posted by derek labian View Post
    I think you will be happy. The application is easy and my results after 4 months have been perfect. I decided to try it after some unexpected rust on various tools even in my climate controlled and dehumidified garage (55%). I had been using wax and glide coat top layer which worked inline with what the Wood Whisper posted. I believe you still need to apply once per year but that depends on usage I'm sure. Good Luck!
    Thanks Derek. Nice to hear from an actual user. I contacted them about reapplying and they said, remove dust then a couple of coats and your done. No need to strip back unless something unforeseen happens. So 15 minutes spent on surface maintenance once a year sounds pretty good to me!
    Last edited by Johnny Barr; 11-09-2022 at 4:15 PM.

  5. #20
    Johnny, I was just about to pull the trigger on the Method Coating kit. How has it worked out for you?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,657
    Id rather put glide coat on 2x as often.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    1,641
    I often wondered why they don't add a black oxide treatment to table saw tops. Would prevent rust, but wonder if it would add friction to cutting wood. Brian
    Brian

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
    Posts
    3,679
    This discussion makes me really happy about having humidity control in the shop. No rust and no additional time/money spent on preventing it. Not a trivial investment, but I've spent more for less. Not to mention it's much more comfortable for the human inhabitant as well.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
    Posts
    1,906
    My shop is evaporative cooled. It is what it is. Glide coat doesn't help, wax doesn't help, I tried the carbon method and I guess we'll see.. but I gave up and just made dust covers anyway.

    I will say that their slick coating is slick, but doesn't last long. Silbergleibt works better and (I never thought I'd say this) is cheaper.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,657
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Demuth View Post
    I have used his method for cleaning once in a while. It certainly works, but it is not gentle on your ROS. The WD40 + Scotchbrite creates a paste of oil and fine cast ion particles, and it WILL get into the sander, and if it gets on your next wood project, the staining will not please you. Cleaning it so you can use the sander again for wood projects is a chore, to me. I pretty much quit doing it for this reason, and because, frankly, my cast iron surfaces just get restained right away anyway, and I really don't care, as long as they don't stain wood and glide well. But if I were to use this method in future, I'd get a cheap ROS for the purpose. I sure as heck wouldn't use a high-end tool like his Festool, and suck the stuff with a dust collector.
    Ive only needed to do this once and just placed the ROS on top of a maroon pad, without DC. I sprayed surface with boeshield rust free and ran it. Then wiped table good and reapplied glidecoat. I dont believe my sander saw any issue with this. I couldnt see it being an issue of resistance and as long as its wet your sander shouldnt be breathing it.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    153
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Palyszeski View Post
    Johnny, I was just about to pull the trigger on the Method Coating kit. How has it worked out for you?
    Brilliantly, Michael. After 12 months the surface was still excellent and I hadn't touched it other than vacuuming and wiping with a cloth. They mention that applying their carbon glide product occasionally will help keep the surface slick but I hadn't seen the need. In January I cleaned the surface with their cleaner and added another 2 coats followed by carbon glide. The surface looks and feels very smooth and there's no sign of rust. I don't think it needed another 2 coats and I probably could have gone another few months before it needed some maintenance. So yes, expensive but well worth it but admittedly I'm not in a high humidity area.

  12. #27
    Awesome! I haven't really seen any bad reviews for this product. I'm going to order today. Thanks for the update!

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    711
    I bought a kit to apply the stuff to my 3 machines that I think could use it. The product arrived a few days ago. It's too damn cold in my shop to do much more than look into it from the threshold right now though. Maybe next week it'll be warm enough to do something.....

  14. #29
    I am currently redoing my shop. Selling my Robland X31 and insulating and running dust collection and electrical for new grizzly planer, jointer, widebelt and old delta Unisaw and old Powermatic bandsaw. Hoping to stretch the Method 3 machine kit on 4 of them.🤞 I will post when I get to use it.

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