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Thread: taking off glue squeeze out

  1. #1
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    taking off glue squeeze out

    Does it hurt planer or jointer knives to clean up glue squeeze out? Or would it be better to sand the little gobs off? I glued up boards for a cutting board and with all the clamps and kinda cold temps, dried very slowly. Next morning very hard glue of course. I should know the answer to this after many years of woodworking but was always able to scrape off squeeze out before it totally dried hard. Tx. Randy
    Randy Cox
    Lt Colonel, USAF (ret.)

  2. #2
    PVA glues don't hurt knives. They can gum things up if it gets too hot, but hardened glue is no big deal.
    I still use a chisel, scraper, etc. and clean off the bulk before running anything through the machine

  3. #3
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    What Edward said. If you can get the glue scraped off after about 30-45 minutes before it hardens that is best. Once hard / dry you will need to work a bit to scrape it and I always will sand a bit down after scraping. Hardened blobs of blue destroy blades quickly.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  4. #4
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    I learned this lesson the hard way many years ago when I wiped out a set of jointer blades on hard glue. If I can't clean up the glue at glue up, I hit the glue globs with a 60 grit disk on my ROS just long enough to break thru the glue.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  5. #5
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    I use Waxilit paste before gluing. Any glue squeeze out just breaks off.

  6. #6
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    I always try and wipe 1 side of panel when glue is wet so I can joint it and go on to planing the other side and not lose to much wood and force me to re square the sides

  7. #7
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    I always knock excess glue off with a chisel or a belt sander. It doesn't take much to chip a knife.

  8. #8
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    One issue with leaving the bead on is if you work it too soon. You mill off the bead and the glue in the seam is still a little damp. That seam then dries out and you can get some shrinkage that doesn't look or feel bad, but it shows up in the finishing as a line in the finish. I take off the bead when it's about like the consistency of cedar cheese. It takes about 5 seconds to run a sharp chisel down it and it peels the whole line off.

  9. #9
    glue has to be removed before it hardens. Its not about planer knives. You failed already if you left it on. Richard points out one dynamic.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    I use Waxilit paste before gluing. Any glue squeeze out just breaks off.
    Does this paste affect finishes? Does it it sand away?

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Rapp View Post
    What Edward said. If you can get the glue scraped off after about 30-45 minutes before it hardens that is best. Once hard / dry you will need to work a bit to scrape it and I always will sand a bit down after scraping. Hardened blobs of blue destroy blades quickly.
    What Justin Said.
    I use mostly Titebond 2. I set the alarm on my phone for 30 minutes, go about my other work and remove the glue with an old chisel.

  12. #12
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    I use mostly titebond pva and usually scrape off the small beads that form during clamping after about 30 minutes. I use a Red Devil paint scraper that I've had for years.

    If you are getting runs or large globs of glue as squeeze out you are using too much glue.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  13. #13
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    A carbide paint scraper makes short work of glue globs; https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-650-Pre...516047003&th=1

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    glue has to be removed before it hardens. Its not about planer knives. You failed already if you left it on. Richard points out one dynamic.
    I know I have "failed already" (which is why the original post). I left it clamped on purpose because, as I said in my orig post, it was cold and drying slowly. Didnt want to take clamps off and it was already late in the evening so I just left it over night, knowing it would harden. Some say won't hurt blades and some say it will destroy them. I won't take the chance on ruining blades so I will 80 grit my sander and take the glue off that way. I've been woodworking over 40 years and always took the glue off with a carbide scrape before it dried, just never tried it with either planer or jointer. Randy
    Randy Cox
    Lt Colonel, USAF (ret.)

  15. #15
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    I don’t know about the knives. I used epoxy on a recent cutting board glue-up and let it harden completely on purpose before removing the clamps after 12 hrs then did my usual: removed the highest excess with a cabinet scraper then ran the piece through the drum sander with 60 grit, worked well. (The wood was dense guatambu and bubinga.)

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