Sanding paste

[Steve Nix]

For those of you who make you on sanding paste , using mineral oil, diatomaceous earth and beeswax..my question is , has any one ever substituted walnut oil.

[John Keeton]

I will be interested to see the responses, having never used sanding paste.

[Mel Fulks]

I’m guessing it’s similar to car…and truck! “Polishing Compound”. Tooth paste would probably work ,too.

[Steve Nix]

Over the counter equivalents are Ask sanding paste and Yorkshire grit.

[Wally Crawford]

I have never tried to make my own, but use Acks as a polish on almost all my bowls.

[Edward Weber]

Mineral oil is a non-drying oil. Walnut oil is typically heat treated to accelerate hardening.
They may act similar if only being used as a lubricant. I would say clean up or wiping off the excess would be the more critical part. If all the abrasive in not removed, the walnut oil can harden, and any abrasive remaining, may become embedded. Be careful on open grain or porous species.

[John Keeton]

I have done dozens of gallery pieces with a glass sheen and have never had the need for sanding paste. It is a process that “finishes the finish.” But, if it helps one get the finish they are after then it would seem appropriate to use. But, I do think there is a risk of ending up with a cloudy finish if not used properly.

[tom lucas]

I just recently started using Pita's True Grit abrasive paste. Leaves the smoothest surface I have ever experienced. Touching it is a pleasure. I usually sand to 400, then apply the TG using 600 grit, rubbing with the grain. After that, I use a paper towel at fairly high speed to remove the TG. Great results at a great price. You only use a little. Not worth making unless you just don't like the results. Not sure how the results could be better though. Use TG before you apply any finish. I have applied over a light cut of shellac sand n seal. Works great as long as you let the SnS dry completely.

[Walter Mooney]

I have a wax finish that I inadvertently got from the estate of a very accomplished turner who was a member of the Hill Country Turners, and the label on the ‘Tupperware’-type container says it’s beeswax and walnut oil. It has proven to be a very nice wax finish. All of these Christmas trees were finished with it.

[Steve Mathews]

While living in Grand Rapids, Mi in the '70s and attempting my first woodworking project an old furniture maker had this finishing advice. Using linseed oil as a base use ground pumice to first polish the wood, then prepare another batch using rottenstone for a final polish. I might have the order backwards but the process sounds something like the friction paste mentioned here. I still have both of the abrasives purchased back then. I may resurrect their use along with some food safe linseed oil on my next bowl.

[Mel Fulks]

While living in Grand Rapids, Mi in the '70s and attempting my first woodworking project an old furniture maker had this finishing advice. Using linseed oil as a base use ground pumice to first polish the wood, then prepare another batch using rottenstone for a final polish. I might have the order backwards but the process sounds something like the friction paste mentioned here. I still have both of the abrasives purchased back then. I may resurrect their use along with some food safe linseed oil on my next bowl.

That’s old-time stuff. The main use of that was for smoothing the wood since there were no stores selling sand paper. They knew
linseed oil on more linseed oil was compatible. Shark-skin was the really rough coarse grit! Not saying the old stuff doesn’t work ,it does
and I enjoyed experimenting with it. Just noting that it’s probably not going be the best finish you have seen. The “fine sandpaper” was
often horse-tail reed. I’ve forgotten the date of the first modern type of sandpaper. 1830s is my guess. Horse-tail reed is about 220 grit…
at least that’s what the patch in my yard is.

[Jim Morgan]

Back when I was starting woodworking 50 years ago or so, I purchased old-timey boxes of pumice (coarser) and rottenstone (finer) for rubbing out film finishes. Probably still have them around somewhere but havent used them in decades. Modern graded abrasives, such as automotive polishing compounds, are superior.

My understanding is that in addition to smoothing surfaces, products like Ack's Paste or Yorkshire Grit or Scratch Freee fill in very fine scratches, increasing reflectance.

[Steve Mathews]

That’s old-time stuff. The main use of that was for smoothing the wood since there were no stores selling sand paper. They knew
linseed oil on more linseed oil was compatible. Shark-skin was the really rough coarse grit! Not saying the old stuff doesn’t work ,it does
and I enjoyed experimenting with it. Just noting that it’s probably not going be the best finish you have seen. The “fine sandpaper” was
often horse-tail reed. I’ve forgotten the date of the first modern type of sandpaper. 1830s is my guess. Horse-tail reed is about 220 grit…
at least that’s what the patch in my yard is.

Not entirely true Mel. Sandpaper was readily available in the early '70s. In fact, I used a Craftsman belt sander to smooth out the table top of my first project. Hand sanding was done elsewhere. The end result of the pumice/rottenstone polishing was as good as any modern day finish I've used since then. The only difference is that it took a lot more time and effort.

[Neil Strong]

I make my own wax version. Unless it is going to have food in it, I use a bees wax base, pine oil, carnauba wax and rottenstone. I sand to #400, apply the wax to the piece and friction polish with a cloth. When it comes off the lathe after that it is all done and ready to go to the gallery.

The rottenstone gives both a higher grit finish to the piece and also helps to even out (cut back) the wax finish, which can prematurely dry out and otherwise sit unevenly on the surface of larger pieces.

I do a similar mix, but with mineral oil as the base, for pieces that will be used for food. With oil I may need to do a second application.