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Thread: Question about Radial Arm Saw

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Question about Radial Arm Saw

    I got an old Craftsman RAS and I want to set it up for cross-cuts exclusively.
    A lot of videos and online posts show the table made from two layers of 3/4" material. But I cannot find any explanation of why.

    I'm guessing this is to allow the top layer to be discarded once it is ripped up from use?

    Because I plan on only 90° cross-cuts is a negative rake tooth blade still the recommend?
    I have some nice cross-cut blades but they are positive rake.

    Thanks, Mark

  2. #2
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    New Hampster, USA
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    I've seen the table made from a single layer of MDF. The negative rake blade will reduce the tendency for the saw to suddenly move toward the operator with a lot of force as the blade engages the board. Try the blades you have and see how they perform. If you are only using it for 90 degree crosscuts then you can move the fence back and increase the cut capacity.

  3. #3
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    Which one is it? I have a 12" I bought new in 1974 that I still keep set up for 90 degree cuts only, and it cuts perfectly, but no one else uses it. Later models are lighter built. I don't care for negative rake blades. No real reason to build the top any way but the way you want it. Mine does have two layers of 3/4's, and the top layer does get changed when needed. The bottom layer is bolted to the saw frame.

  4. #4
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    I have a ZCI in the top for my old Dewalt RAS. I don't bother to replace it anymore; I just fill the groove with Bondo when it gets worn. So I never replace the top. FWIW, my saw is MUCH safer with a negative hook blade on it. Try the blades you have, but don't hesitate to get a negative hook blade if they are too aggressive.

    John

  5. #5
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    My Craftsman RAS has a single layer of particle board for the table. The fence is a separate piece of particle board as is the piece that goes behind the fence. Be sure to align the arm to be perpendicular to the fence. Once you have it set to 90 screw down the arm lock to keep it there.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  6. #6
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    Mine came with an MDF top. First thing I did was tack a sacrificial layer of 1/4” plywood to the top with small brads, positioned so the blade could never hit them. I cut lots of angles, ripped etc and replaced the plywood as needed.

    JKJ

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Gibney View Post
    I got an old Craftsman RAS and I want to set it up for cross-cuts exclusively.
    A lot of videos and online posts show the table made from two layers of 3/4" material. But I cannot find any explanation of why.

    I'm guessing this is to allow the top layer to be discarded once it is ripped up from use?

    Because I plan on only 90° cross-cuts is a negative rake tooth blade still the recommend?
    I have some nice cross-cut blades but they are positive rake.

    Thanks, Mark

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Shorewood, WI
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    897
    It is very nice if the top stays flat. The “Mr Sawdust” design uses two layers of sheet goods with steel strips on edge embedded half in each in between to keep it flat. Often there’s also a sacrificial surface on top.

  8. #8
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    My old Craftsman had several tops before I acquired it as part of the severance from my boss in Concord NH in 1983. Since then it has had 3 other tops. The current top is solid oak and very satisfactory. It is one of the best gifts I have ever been given!

    Craftsman radial arm saw part
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 01-21-2023 at 9:20 PM.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  9. #9
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    I always used 1 piece of 3/4" particle board and 1 layer of 1/4" luan as the sacrificial layer.

  10. #10
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    Well thanks everyone, so basically do what works best and there is plenty of leeway.
    Maurice, I see from your previous post you like a thin kerf blade, which I have read can be recommended for saws with small 1/2 hp motors like mine, so I'll keep that in mind.
    Last edited by Mark Gibney; 01-22-2023 at 2:07 PM.

  11. #11
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    I still need to get a crosscut, non climbing blade. It will most likely be a Freud Diablo from Home Depot. They do an excellent job for me, as well as being affordable and convenient.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    My RAS is an old Craftsman that works excellently for 90 degree crosscuts. The table I cut down from an old solid core door.

    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    The Hartland of Michigan
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    7,628
    I built a Mr Sawdust table for my Delta RAS. Heavy, and doesn't warp. 1/4" hardboard top.

  14. #14
    My Craftsman RAS has an MDF table, I only use it for 90° cuts and I use negative hook 80 tooth blade, much less repair than on the back side of the cut than a positive hook blade.
    Assumption is the mother of all screw ups
    Anonyms

  15. #15
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    Aug 2021
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    Redmond, OR
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    I have been using Freud Ultimate cut off blades (which have a positive rake) on my radial arm saws for 30 years and have never had a problem. I think my 7.5hhp RAS has too much power and weight to ever catch on a board and try to climb over it though. With a less ridged Craftsman RAS I would be more worried about using a negative rake blade. I think that the lighter duty RAS's like Craftsman is where the negative rake recommendation came from.

    For good results and accurate cuts you really want your RAS table top very flat and your saw dialed in very well. My RAS table is a scratch and dent solid core door with a 1/2" MDF sacrificial top on it. Blemished solid core doors are REALLY cheap because they are pretty useless for their intended purpose.
    Last edited by Michael Schuch; 01-24-2023 at 1:49 AM.

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