I just got a couple of new bandsaw blades. One immediately went on the saw and I'll keep the other as a replacement. The blades come coiled and I was wondering if it's better to uncoil them until needed or leave them as is.
I just got a couple of new bandsaw blades. One immediately went on the saw and I'll keep the other as a replacement. The blades come coiled and I was wondering if it's better to uncoil them until needed or leave them as is.
I leave mine coiled, they take up far less space and are less likely to be damaged.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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I leave them coiled when not in use and hanging on the wall, although currently, they are under my CNC machine waiting for "their spot" in the new shop.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Same here, I leave them coiled. They are under far less stress, like almost zero, compared to being wrapped around the BS wheels with 25 ksi on them.
John
Mine are coiled as well.
I keep them coiled and coil blades I temporarily or permanently remove from the saw.
I store some new blades in the box until needed, hang some on a wall.
I hang some new blades on hangers fastened to the ceiling above the bandsaw where I can reach up and get one as needed.
I sharpen dull blades as needed. If in a rush I coil and store dull blades in a separate place and mark them with tape as dull, usually hanging on a wall.. I usually sharpen blades several times before discarding. I sharpen them by hand with a Dremel while they are mounted.
Blades take up less space when coiled.
My new blades come coiled with three loops. Before discarding old blades I re-coil with five loops so they take up less space. I sometimes make 7 loops but that’s trickier.
Here's a good video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btOSZNjWMyk&t=121s
and another one:
https://vimeo.com/97887842?embedded=...owner=29017205
I store mine coiled. Some are still in the box in a cabinet. Others are coiled hanging on the wall.
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
I notice that no one wants to teach the coiling process in print ! And even when one learns it …there are days it won’t work !
Here's the way I do it. Stand on a wood floor or a mat so you won't hurt the teeth on the blade. Put the blade in front of you, teeth pointing away, with one end of the band on the floor, the other as high as it takes to make a circle. Put one foot on the blade where it meets the floor. The next part involes your hand and arm. I use my right foot to hold down the blade, so I use my right hand. Ok, with your palm down, turn one hand back towards your chest and grab the top of the blade with your fingers curled over the blade, on the smooth side. Wear gloves! Now, with your foot still holding the bottom against the floor, rotate your hand holding the blade in a horizontal arc. As the blade twists into a figure eight, lean forward and lower your hand towards the floor so the blade forms coils. Use your other hand to help the coils mesh. When you are done, you will have 3 coils and your hand that started at the top will be 2/3's lower than where you began.
To safely uncoil blades I usually go outside, stand on the grass, and just throw them away from me into the air. They uncoil before they land in the grass. Wimpy blades I can uncoil in my hands, but stout blades I do as just described.
John
Last edited by John TenEyck; 02-10-2023 at 3:15 PM.
John,
It's a worthwhile skill to learn how to uncoil a bandsaw blade in a controlled, safe way. There might be a day where inclement weather will not allow you to throw your blade on the lawn. Or maybe you will be in a shop setting where you need to uncoil a blade and there is no lawn in sight.
This is the method I use, even with 1" carbide blades:
I coil mine by holding the band in front of me in my right hand with my palm up. I gently step on the blade against the floor. Then while holding onto the band, I twist my wrist to the left while turning my hand so the palm is down as I bend over and push the band toward the floor. It will coil automatically into three coils. Grasp the three coils with your left hand, release your right hand and tie the blade with a twist tie.
If you are left handed, this method works the same using the left hand palm up.
Last edited by Lee Schierer; 02-10-2023 at 6:09 PM.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute
I use the small abrasive cut off disks like this : https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-409-Cu.../dp/B00004UDGX
I don't use the edge but the flat. Since the "grinding" is extremely light and only a tiny amount of metal is removed I have never worn one out.
bandsaw_sharpen.jpg
I show this method in my bandsaw classes. Someday I'd like to make a video since there is a lot of interest. Many people have sharpened this way for a bunch of years.
It takes me between 1 and 2 seconds per tooth, over 400 teeth for my 11'10" 3tpi blades. I generally sharpen 3-4 times before I toss the blade.
JKJ
I've taught it many times, but in person and in a message or two. Sorry I don't have good pictures. Coiling with 3 loops takes about 4 seconds once you know how. It's all in the wrist. I don't even wear gloves for the 1/2" 3tpi blades.
Here's a picture one where I've coiled three loops, expanded one loop in preparation for holding the three on the floor with one foot to coil with 5 loops shown in the second photo. The third picture is one coiled with 7 loops (just to see if I can do it). 7 loops is never necessary it's mostly for showing off.
band_coil_01_IMG_20170807_143948_951.jpg band_coil5_IMG_20170807_143824_792.jpg band_coil7_IMG_20170807_153046_018.jpg
I can coil three loops in the air but it's easier to hold the blade vertically with the bottom of the band against the floor, step on it with one foot, grab the band on the sides with both hands, and bend so the top of the loop moves towards me while bringing both hands together and crossing. Like my piano teacher always said, "everything's easy once you know how."
For me the challenging blades are for the Woodmizer sawmill - long, wide, thick steel, wicked teeth. My bandsaw blade-making guy can coil these in the air with no effort. I have to think about it and take my time so I don't get hurt. Wear heavy jeans, leather gloves and eye protection!
If I can find the time I could probably make a series of photos that the procedure.
JKJ