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Thread: Beading advice

  1. 03-01-2023, 9:32 PM #1
    Keegan Shields's Avatar
    Keegan Shields
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    Beading advice

    I purchased a few beading cutters for my small veritas plow plane. Any tips to make some nice crisp beads? I’m getting some tear out in soft maple and oak when the grain gets squirrely. Should I use a marking gauge to score the outer edges of the bead?

    Thanks!
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  3. 03-02-2023, 12:59 AM #2
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    Jim Koepke
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    Yes, scoring the edge that is prone to tear out can help.

    If the grain is running at an angle to the edge, at the blade one side of the blade is cutting rising grain and one side is cutting grain falling.

    This is also where a side rabbet plane can help clean up the fuzzies after cutting the bead.

    If you have a carving gouge close to the same size as your beading blade you can have some fun:

    100_1163.jpg

    That is my initials in Morse Code on the edge of one side of my tool tote.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 03-02-2023 at 2:46 PM.
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  4. 03-02-2023, 7:15 AM #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keegan Shields View Post
    I purchased a few beading cutters for my small veritas plow plane. Any tips to make some nice crisp beads? I’m getting some tear out in soft maple and oak when the grain gets squirrely. Should I use a marking gauge to score the outer edges of the bead?

    Thanks!
    Hi Keegan

    Yes, score the sides, but also add a backbevel to increase the cutting angle.

    I wrote about this here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...dingPlane.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
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  5. 03-02-2023, 7:43 AM #4
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    Thanks Jim and Derek! I’ll give it a try.

    The Morse code gave me a chuckle.
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  6. 03-02-2023, 9:43 AM #5
    chris carter
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    You could also do the final 5% of cutting with a scratch stock.
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  7. 03-02-2023, 11:06 AM #6
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    Afraid I won't bead much help on this one....as I use the Stanley 45 for bead work....
    A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use
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  8. 03-02-2023, 2:37 PM #7
    Jack Dover
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    Yeah, was about to suggest it, sometimes maple has quite a wild grain and it will tear no matter what. Esp. when molding it, because there's neither a chip breaker nor a narrow mouth. So I usually make a scraper by copying a molding plane profile and plane as much as I can while tearout is still in the waste area. A scratch stock does the rest, goes pretty fast once you collect profiled scrapers for your molders.
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  9. 03-02-2023, 6:53 PM #8
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    Towel Ladder, beads done.JPG
    Steps for a ladder, needed this feature...done by...
    Towel Ladder, 1st bead done.JPG
    Stanley No. 45 with a single bead cutter...
    Towel Ladder PIP, tread details.JPG
    Had to move the fence a time or two..wood is Ash...
    Jewelry Box, end view.JPG
    Ash again...bead detail for a small box..
    Jewelry Box, full bead.JPG
    Double bead..because this is to be a spline..
    Jewelry Box. spline pattern.JPG
    To connect the corners..
    Jewelry Box, crossing the T.JPG
    Add a lid..
    PIP, all stained, 1st coat shellac.JPG

    A bit too fancy?
    Last edited by steven c newman; 03-02-2023 at 6:58 PM.
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  10. 03-02-2023, 7:11 PM #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Dover View Post
    Yeah, was about to suggest it, sometimes maple has quite a wild grain and it will tear no matter what. Esp. when molding it, because there's neither a chip breaker nor a narrow mouth. So I usually make a scraper by copying a molding plane profile and plane as much as I can while tearout is still in the waste area. A scratch stock does the rest, goes pretty fast once you collect profiled scrapers for your molders.
    True.

    Rule #1 when beading is to choose your stock carefully - straight grain preferred. But sometimes there is no choice, and then higher cutting angles are the primary option (as these are single iron tools).

    Into the grain with a standard Small Plow cutter - massive tear out ..




    Planed in both directions with a 15-degree back bevel (60-degree cutting angle) …




    Regards from Perth

    Derek
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  11. 03-03-2023, 11:09 AM #10
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    Note: when using a Stanley 45 to cut beads...both skates should be behind the cutter's quirks, to support them. Also, as soon as the bead takes the shape you want it to, STOP cutting, as the plane is not using a depth stop...and will just keep going deeper..(BTDT, not a good look)
    Jewelry Box, first corner done.JPG
    To make this spline, I also needed to do rebates..
    Jewelry Box, cuts of a spline.JPG
    I'll let you guess how that was done...
    Jewelry Box, crossing the T.JPG
    Fun little corner joint to try, sometime....
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  12. 03-05-2023, 12:29 PM #11
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    That’s a neat joint Steven, I’ll file that in the mental index of wood joints. Although I’d probably split the spline during dry fitting and ruin everything.
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