How to safely make this cut?

[Lee Schierer]

Set the table saw to the correct angle, cut, flip, cut again. Easy Peasy. Clean up with a sander.

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Only if you have a right tilt table saw. You still have a piece trapped between the blade and the fence.

[Doug Garson]

Only if you have a right tilt table saw. You still have a piece trapped between the blade and the fence.

Or move the fence to the right side? I like the idea of cutting them from a 2 x 6 or 2 x 8, one angled cut, finish the angle cut with a hand saw if necessary and then one 90 degree cut.

[Bob Falk]

Buy another2 x 4. Run them through the planer.

Attachment 497145

That is a clever idea. I love it!

[Ronald Blue]

Buy another2 x 4. Run them through the planer.

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+2

I actually think this might be easiest of all. I was thinking this before getting to William's comment. It wouldn't take long to make a jig to do this.

[Cameron Wood]

Set the table saw to the correct angle, cut, flip, cut again. Easy Peasy. Clean up with a sander.

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OMG. You don't even have a sawstop. How many fingers do you have left?

[andrew whicker]

He did it in two passes. Seems reasonable.

I don't like trapping lumber btwn the angled blade and fence, but you could put the fence on the other side.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

OMG. You don't even have a sawstop. How many fingers do you have left?

9 and two thirds. Should I take the post down while I still can?

I nicked the tip of a finger on a miter saw in 1981. Some one had removed all of the guards. The saw was coasting to a stop. I have not had a power saw injury in 42 years. Sill, I do not want to be giving bad advice.

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[Maurice Mcmurry]

Only if you have a right tilt table saw. You still have a piece trapped between the blade and the fence.

If your blade tilts the other way you can place The fence can be placed on the other side.
I am having second thoughts about posting this.

[Jim Becker]

Beveling using the thickness planer does work well and I've used that for door thresholds, for example. It's probably a little harder to execute on a narrow workpiece like the OP is working with, however, especially with the "extreme" angle.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I will try the vacuum holder for the 2nd cut next time.

[Cameron Wood]

9 and two thirds. Should I take the post down while I still can?

I nicked the tip of a finger on a miter saw in 1981. Some had removed all of the guards. The saw was coasting to a stop. I have not had a power saw injury in 42 years. Sill, I do not want to be giving bad advice.

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I neglected to use the irony emoji. Your advice is fine. I was poking fun at the more cautious who would still be making a jig after you had cut the piece, had a nap, & eaten a sandwich.

[Derek Cohen]

I would have two ways to do this with machines:

1. sliding tablesaw using a taper jig. You may do this on a standard tablesaw.

2. Mark the diagonal and use a track saw on an MFT.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Carl Beckett]

I would probably make the planer jig. Cut on the bandsaw first then pass through the planer (seems more secure than the jointer to get even pressure on the tapered edge). Overkill maybe, but this cut makes me a bit nervous in a number of ways.

[Alan Lightstone]

How about the planer jig (left slightly thick) followed by a wide-belt sander with the board kept on the jig (or drum sander if it goes that high.

[Bob Falk]

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I ended up using the bandsaw and cut the 2x4 as shown in the attached picture. I used double sided tape to secure a wood block (red) against the fence (yellow) to keep the 2x4 from moving toward the fence. The 2x4 was much longer than indicated in the image.

Worked great, felt safe, and I ended up with a clean and accurate cut. Helped that I had a new Resaw King blade.....the 2x4 cut like butter. Cheers, bob

bandsaw fence.jpg