Silent-Cutter (segmented) Care and Feeding advise

[Lisa Starr]

I've recently run a substantial number of board feet of softwood thru my Hammer A3-31.
The inserts seem to still be cutting very well and don't leave an tracks, so no nicks, but there is a significant build up of resin below the inserts.
Since I don't need to rotate the inserts, do I:

1) attempt to clean the head without removing the inserts
2) remove, clean and re-install the inserts in the same orientation
3) ignore the resin until it becomes necessary to rotate the inserts

Thanks for your thoughts/advise

[Bill Dufour]

I would hope planing of non-resinous wood would clean off some of the resin from the chip wash.
BillD

[Warren Lake]

might be a good reason to coat first not sure wax Pam whatever. Iv cleaned some amount on a head on a 50 year old planer likely never cleaned. Build up from pine and some black like its burned. Wire brush and lac reducer. School so used by cannibals with overlords who should teach to keep the head clean. If you want to set old school knives using a dial and register off the head its not going to be accurate with tons of years build up.

Dont have new fangled heads so others will tell you the best way to clean.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I wouldn't hesitate to clean them in the head using a nylon brush and lacquer thinner or acetone or mineral spirits. I would test first to see if one of those solvents will dissolve the pitch. I suspect any of them will. I'd try mineral spirits first.

[Lee Schierer]

I wouldn't hesitate to clean them in the head using a nylon brush and lacquer thinner or acetone or mineral spirits. I would test first to see if one of those solvents will dissolve the pitch. I suspect any of them will. I'd try mineral spirits first.

Just be sure to pack rags so that the solvent can't reach the bearings or painted surfaces.

[Scott T Smith]

I run into this problem a lot when we do production runs with southern yellow pine through our Oliver jointer/planer and our moulder. Here is my approach.

1 - soften up the sap with either Free All (penetrating oil) or cotton spindle oil. Both work great to soften the hardened sap.
2 - After the sap has softened, clean it off with stiff bristle nylon brush, or a bronze brush. Do not use steel as it may dull the carbide inserts.

After cleaning, a coating of wax will help make the next cleaning easier. Bostic’s blade kote works well,l but I’ve recently discovered that DuPont Waxy Chain Lube cost less and works as well (and is finish safe too).

Do not remove the carbides first if you can avoid it.

Best of success to you.

[Bill Dufour]

l but I’ve recently discovered that DuPont Waxy Chain Lube cost less and works as well (and is finish safe too).

Dupont chain saver lube in a spray can ?
Be careful with those solvent soaked rags! See the thread on spontaneous combustion.
Bill D