Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 33

Thread: Sharpening

  1. #1

    Sharpening

    Saw this, while surfing You Tube this evening. Like from the old Laugh In, 'Very interesting!"

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBjiEmN5HzA&t=0s

    robo hippy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Connecticut Shoreline
    Posts
    339
    Interesting! I rarely ever comment on sharpening threads anymore, because it's a question like, what type of women are most beautiful?, or what type of beer is tastiest?. Everybody has their own ideas and there is rarely consensus. I remember an account of Tage Frid sharpening on a relatively coarse belt grinder and then finishing on a felt buffing wheel. He seemed to do okay, though it ate up chisels quickly, by the account I read.

    I agree in general with the guy's conclusions, It doesn't really matter which system one uses. It's important to strop for a really keen edge. The sharpest edges dull quickly but remain pretty sharp for a long while. Folks often sharpen more than they need to.

    Nowadays I use diamond stones and a leather strop with green compound. Even though he says it isn't the best system, the convenience, lack of mess, and little stone maintenance has won me over. My edges are plenty sharp, at least sharp enough for the work I do, in the woods that I typically work with. (soft woods and relatively well behaved hardwoods). I suppose if I were working with more difficult stuff I'd think differently.

    DC

    One thing that nobody talks a lot about is to sharpen for the specific task. If I am going to be paring end grain or sharpening the plane iron I use for shooting, I always take great care to get as keen an edge as I can. If I am touching up an edge of a chisel for chopping, I am somewhat less careful. I think a lot of folks do this without really thinking about it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    East Rochester, NY
    Posts
    179
    It's tough to crawl out of that youtube rabbit hole once you get started.......

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,193
    Almost as entertaining as starting a Sharpening thread on this site,eh?
    A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Brooklyn NY
    Posts
    265
    I like a dan’s hard ark slip stone in the kit and shapton glass in the shop.

  6. #6
    I watched, not a bad video but nothing new except maybe kinda hit on the most important thing about sharpening is getting a smooth cutting edge. No mention of oil stones? Strange. Are folks still posting about the "unicorn" system?

    ken

  7. #7
    I am either blessed or cursed by being one of those people who just has to experiment. I like the idea of a hard and thin leather for strop. Eric Lofstrom, notable turner uses kangaroo leather for his strop because it doesn't compress. That would make rounding the edge over more difficult to do. The journey continues.... Sharpening at this level is new to me. My bowl gouges are sharpened at 180 grit and no honing or stropping the burr off.

    robo hippy

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    East Cost
    Posts
    205
    Any thin leather PVA glued to a hard substrate like MDF doesn't compress either. The glue soaks into leather and hardens it just enough. Found this by a happy accident. But then just MDF with polishing compound works as good. I think leather strops come from the days before polishing compounds sticks. Tanned leather has quite a high chromium content, which makes it abrasive, so a strop would hone a nicely polished edge just enough to remove remnants of a wire edge. With the polishing compound a substrate is less important, I had strops made from regular denim jeans in a pinch, works the same (while it works).

    Experimenting with sharpening is fun, esp. the days it improves your sharpness. Just beware that it's an expensive kind of fun and that improvements usually come from changes in your method rather than from changing abrasives. Except, of course, corner cases when you graduate from sharpening plane irons on 180grit sanding paper and palm stropping to a black arkie and power buffing, or something like that. In other words, once you start sharpening better than before, it's applicable to any kind of abrasives, be it diamonds, novaculite or waterstones, powered or not.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    973
    Jonathan Katz Moses just released a video on sharpening where he spent about $10,000 on sharpening systems and testing systems, including scientific sharpening meter that measures sharp in terms a relative number, in this case grams of pressure against a tensioned wire. He compared Tormex, scary sharp sand paper, sharpening stones, and other methods, along with different grades of tool steel, then deliberately wore down the blade and re-measured sharpness after numerous cuts through hard maple.

    I found the video interesting to watch to really go down deep into the sharpening rabbet hole.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBjiEmN5HzA
    Regards,

    Tom

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    854
    I don't know much about the thread-based sharpness testing device, but it seems very far removed from the actual action of cutting wood. A youtuber did a chisel test some time ago using the a similar device.

    I find test results produced with a CATRA device a lot more informative. If interested, check this article by Larrin Thomas.

    https://knifesteelnerds.com/2020/05/...-knife-steels/

    There's a lot of details in the article, but one can glean the key outcomes for some of the steels we use, i. e. O1, A2, D2.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South West Ontario
    Posts
    1,505
    Something that bounces like a kangaroo yet has a leather hide that does not compress just seems wrong! Perhaps Derek has some kangaroo hide experience?
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    Quote Originally Posted by William Fretwell View Post
    Something that bounces like a kangaroo yet has a leather hide that does not compress just seems wrong! Perhaps Derek has some kangaroo hide experience?

    Rolf Harris had something to say ... sing ...



    I have used Horse Butt leather for about 20 years. You can get it from Joel at Tools for Working Wood.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    East Rochester, NY
    Posts
    179
    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Almost as entertaining as starting a Sharpening thread on this site,eh?
    🤣🤣🤣 Indeed it is...

  14. #14
    Tan me hide when I'm dead Fred...... I did like that song....

    robo hippy

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    2,287
    I hate this “scientific” crap. Find a method that works for you and build something.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •