[OP]
Contributor
Have the boards for my new dining table roughed out S4S. I left them each (there’s 6) as long as I could to assure the best grain match. I have them laid out in order now…
73E6A641-74C6-4E85-9290-FC33046E51BA.jpg
8EEC1877-3BFB-4F80-8025-40E759353157.jpg
They’re all oversized by at least 4 inches (and some by three feet probably)
HERE’S MY QUESTION: Should I cut them to rough length next or should I leave them at their current length and joint them to their neighbor?
Contributor
Cut them to rough length then joint is what I would do. It is safer for those times when biscuits are used.
Epilog Mini 24-45W, Corel Draw X6, Photoshop CS5, Multi Cam CNC
Member
I would cut them to table length plus a little. I don't see any advantage to milling longer boards. If your machines are setup properly the edges should be flat and square so no need to joint edges together.
[OP]
Contributor
Especially since my arm is the machine.Originally Posted by Greg Funk
Member
Sorry - I was looking at 'New Posts' and got lost
Contributor
I like a couple inches over length, so I wouldn’t bother cutting the ones that are 4” over any shorter, yet I’d rough cut the longer ones.
I prefer to have enough extra length to be able to saw the edge square once everything is glued up, rather than try to match everything exactly and clean up the end with a plane.
Contributor
Lay them out with most pleasing look ,without any trimming. That gives you some room to slide them a bit to make one board blend
with another. Then you can do rough trimming of all ends ,trying to have no cracks and checks. Number them, and pencil in the number
placement order on end of each board. Get rid of all bark edges and sapwood .
Guest
Should have skim planed only for color/grain match and then do the glue-up at full thickness then four-square and bring to final thickness as if it were one, huge board. It's crucial to get the side that registers to the undercarriage flat, or you'll pull the undercarriage into twist -- fatal if the table is to have drawers.
Where you are now -- cut to rough length leaving plenty to trim off each end, joint and glue. Do not glue twist into the unit.
[OP]
Contributor
It must look more prepped than what it is. It is just skim planed for minimal flatness and grain.
Contributor
Good advice Mel. Last table top I did not trim the ends enough and after glue up I spotted an end grain crack. Had to cut off almost 2 inches of entire table.
Contributor
I would surface the boards more, taking material from both sides, then let them settle for a couple of weeks.
If they are pretty flat, leave long. Otherwise, trim to oversize length, being sure to trim all ends and inspect for cracks- keep trimming ends until there are no cracks/checks.
After settling, joint and glue.
If the wood came from different or unknown moisture conditions, repeat the milling/settling steps leaving longer times- a year or more if it's not really dry.
Only bother with these steps if you want the table to be flat and stable...
I have a buddy who made a nice walnut dining table, but it makes you just a little seasick.
[OP]
Contributor
T(e wood has been in my shop for over a year and the boards were skimmed between two and five months ago. I’ll do my best on the cracks. I cut off well past any cracks/checks when I did the length.
Contributor
Breadboards would protect the end grain sides from absorbing moisture, cover imperfections and may be more attractive than the sight of end grain.
Contributor
Sounds like you're off to a good start!
Are you planning to hand plane the whole thing? Makes my arms tired thinking of it.
Contributor
Charles, are you recommending he should just hand plane the edges square and glue all the boards up, THEN flatten the top and thickness the bottom?
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote