Should I keep or return new Circular Saw?

[Jorge Castro]

I recently bought a new 7 1/4" circular saw (Makita 5700NK) as my current one (about 10 yr old or more Skill model) doesn't have a micro adjustment screw to set the 0deg stop on the bevel angle (has a tab that you have to bend to get it to stop at 90deg) so it is hard to set it to correctly be at 90deg (base-plate to blade). The new Makita saw came with the base plate square to the blade (measured with a Kinex DIN 875/1 square) and the base-plate seems to be straight as far as I can tell. However, when I cut pine plywood with it, it didn't cut a 90deg angle. I though that perhaps the plywood was curved on edges and that is why this happened. However I also cut a new MDF (which is very straight and defect free) panel and it didn't make a straight 90deg angle either. The blade used is of reasonable quality (DeWalt 60 teeth fine cross cut). I had to adjust the micro-adjustment screw quite a bit to compensate for this and was finally able to set it such that it is cutting MDF with a 90deg/square angle. I checked the angle of the cut on the MDF with the same Kinex square and it is good. However, when I check the circ saw again with the Kinex square I find that now (as expected) the base plate of the saw is clearly not square to the blade. This makes me think that there might be a problem with the saw (like the depth of cut mechanism or whatever). Am I missing something here or is this because each blade will produce a slightly different angle when it is rotating at high speed vs when saw is stopped.

Should I return the saw (still within the 30 day return window) or keep it. I leaning towards returning it. And I am considering trying to figure out a way to square my current skill saw that is easier (using pieces of wood I make as stoppers to simulate effect of micro adjustment screw) or something else.

I am totally open to suggestions here!

[Lee Schierer]

The blade used is of reasonable quality (DeWalt 60 teeth fine cross cut).

I am totally open to suggestions here!

Unless your "reasonable quality" blade is brand new, I would suspect the blade or improper blade mounting. Have you checked for square at different positions of the blade, i.e. rotate the blade and check for square every ninety degrees. Also check to see that the angle of the blade to the base plate doesn't change when you change the depth of cut.

[Jorge Castro]

Yes, it is a brand new blade. I will certainly check what you just said. I am suspecting that the angle is changing with the depth of cut. To measure the angle I have to put blade on max depth but when cutting I have used the blade on only 1" or 1 1/4" depth. I can certainly see the possibility of the angle changing enough in this way and if that is the case, it would be a good reason to return the saw!

[Aaron Inami]

It is possible that there is a spindle runout issue. You could set the blade "square" at one point, but the blade then wobbles all over the place when the motor is running. Your "micro-adjust" may have just evened the whole thing out so that the "runout wobble" is equal on each side of the cut.

[Bill Dufour]

Put a dial indicator on the blade body and spin the blade slowly. The needle should not move at all. Raise and lower the blade. Again the needle should not move.
Bill D

[Tom M King]

I like the Porter Cable 347/743 models so much that not only did I keep the first ones I bought new 20 to 30 years ago, but have picked up several others off CL as backups that were like new. They also made 447 and 744 models that had a blade brake. I don't prefer a brake for general use, but for some things they're nice, so I have those too.

They are 15 amp lightweight magnesium framed pro saws. I don't know when they quit making them, but they show up every so often still in the case with the original blade for about 50 bucks on Craigslist. If I'm remembering correctly, 347 is right blade, and 743 is the mirror image left blade model.

There's always a bunch of them on ebay, but they generally go for a lot more money there. Make sure you get the little bent metal tube sawdust chute, which came with the saws, that lets you direct the way the sawdust shoots out, or can be used with a vacuum.

[Alex Zeller]

A circular saw is a tool of construction to me. I use mine to cut things like 2x4s when I don't have my chop saw handy. My Milwaukee has been dropped by people helping more more times than I can count. I've had to remove and straighten the base to the blade a half dozen time. I've even replaced the base plate once. If it was a track saw I would feel differently. But that's just me. I don't know what standard Makita has in place for their circular saws.

[Cameron Wood]

Usually the problem is that the shoe is not flat- either bent or twisted.

Sometimes the depth lock will throw alignment off when it is clamped down & something needs to be bent slightly to get it to work right.

[Andrew Hughes]

I agree with Alex Makita sidewinders or wormdrive saws are goods saws if they survive the ride home in the back of truck and still work at the next job site.
I used to have a porter cable saw boss it was a tough lite saws. It was my favorite I think that’s why they stopped making it.
Good Luck

[Rich Engelhardt]

I agree with the people above saying the saw itself is more a construction tool than it is a precision woodworking tool.
The plunge/track saw is a precision woodworking tool.

[Michelle Rich]

I think you are expecting too much from a tool designed to cut 2x4s and framing lumber. If you want a better saw, I'd suggest a good track saw.

[Jorge Castro]

Thank you to all of you for your kind replies. Yes, I agree that a track saw would be best. However, because I am a DIY person and woodworking is a hobbie I can't justify the $$ needed for a track saw and instead would like to see what is the best I can do with a straight edge and a circular saw instead. I do have an update on this issue. I have measured the angle on the Makita all around and also at different heights and this doesn't seem to be the issue. I am leaning towards something going on with the spindle mechanism. As it stands now, the saw cuts well with but for that to happen I have to "misalingne" it using the micro adjustment screw... I don't like that so I have decided that I will return it. Furthermore, I was able to properly align my older Skill saw and made fairly decent cuts so I think I will simply keep my old saw for now. It doesn't have micro adjustment screw so it is a pain to align. I was able to use the thickness of two pieces of a poker playing card as a subtitute for a micro-adjustment and it worked. I almost wish I knew how to weld because I would simply build/add a microadjustment screw into it!

[Cameron Wood]

I have a Makita worm drive (technical disclaimer here) saw that I keep in the shop.

I keep the blade set at 90˚ and never change it, and only use one blade.

It makes pretty good cuts in plywood with a guide, but I don't expect to get any joinery or glue joints from it.

The bevel scale is crude, and I think there is a positive stop at 90˚, but I use a square.


If the issue is that the bevel scale is not that accurate, I would just accept that that's how saws are.

[andrew whicker]

I have the cordless version of this saw. I think it's way nicer than most construction saws. The shoe is made well.

Metabo HPT 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw Kit | https://a.co/d/afCV8Gj

[Aaron Inami]

Forget about that 7-1/4" saw, you need one of these!!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/39-J7BLj3oA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SJGDWS/