Inserting metal threaded inserts into hardwood

[Lee Schierer]

For the project I am currently working on I needed eight 10-24 brass threaded inserts to attach some pieces of Red Oak to a metal frame. These insert have sharp threads so they slice into the hardwood, and also fingers if you aren't careful. Here is how I inserted the brass inserts.

First I drilled holes in the oak just a thousandth or two larger than the barrel diameter of the threaded insert to a depth greater than the attaching screw will be able to go when the parts are assembled.

Then I took a screw of the same thread size as the insert and removed the head. I screwed two nuts onto the screw to hold it while cutting off the head and then jammed the two nut tightly against each other about 3/8" up from one end leaving an inch or more sticking out the other side. I chucked this assembly into my drill press.
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Then I screwed on an insert and applied a bit of beeswax to the very bottom of the thread and mashed it in with my fingers.
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After aligning the insert with the hole, I applied downward pressure on the quill handle while turning the chuck by hand to screw the insert into the wood until flush.
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Once the insert was flush, I simply turned the chuck in the opposite direction to unscrew the adapter from the insert.
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To insure the inserts were below the wood surface I used a flat screw driver to turn the insert an addition 1/4 or 1/2 turn. In one instance I had to release my tool from the chuck, release the jam nuts from each other to remove the tool from the insert. I've used the same technique to insert larger sized inserts as well.

[Mark Gibney]

Thanks, very useful summary. I particularly like where you turn the chuck by hand to set the inserts. I'll use this method.

[John TenEyck]

You can buy insert drivers that just engage in the screwdriver slots. That eliminates the problem of a threaded driver getting jammed to the insert.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025QCIG6...t_details&th=1

John

[al ladd]

If doing lots of these you can use a similar method using a hand drill and the nut holder should have an inch or so of smooth shaft that will pass through an indexing block with a straight perfectly sized hole to go though to assure square installation. I use this method to install 100's of the cheap flanged cast zinc type, as I prefer the lower price and the flange .

[Tom M King]

That's a good method, although it would be a bit difficult to use in old window jambs for stops like I use them for. I use ones made to thread in metal, and prethread the holes with a tap for those, as well as use the driver like John linked to. That way, with time comes to take the old sash out, nothing needs to get damaged by prying off parts nailed on. You can just back out some small machine screws and take the stops down, and sash out. I use them for parting stops too.

I made a guide to drill them all alike, as well as square to, with metal guides for the drill bit.

https://www.ezlok.com/for-metal/ezlo...tainless-steel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlQWhmr1DJQ

[Patty Hann]

Done it this way for the #4, #6, #8, and 1/4" inserts, all the solid brass ones, some in hardwood (cherry, maple), some in BB ply.
Works exactly as Lee describes. Those inserts go in sooooooo straight, unlike what happens when doing them freehand (DAMHIKT)

[Johannes Becker]

I switched from the screw method to a dedicated driver when I had a lot of them to do for a project. The drivers work great in a hand brace for installation, gives me much better control for keeping them straight than an electric drill/ driver. Actually the 1/4 insert driver lives in that brace so I rarely go over to the drill press even where part dimensions woudl allow to put the part on the drill press.

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