Rough sawn doug fir paneling finish q'S

[joel cervera]

I've built a new 950 sq ft 3 car garage/workshop. I have just received a load of tongue and groove rough sawn doug fir that I will becovering the rear wall and ceiling with. 3/4x8" . My buddies milled and profiled the wood for me. They also put it into their kiln and have the MC down to 10-12%. I have a few gallons on raw pure unprocessed Tung oil, from a previous floor project. I plan on rolling it onto the show side with 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and TO.

Anyone ever roll a finish onto rough sawn wood? foam roller?

I am guessing moisture content is ok. I've got it sitting in both my garages and acclimating..

Any reason I must finish both sides? I know is preferred but since it getting nailed up with backside facing wall insulsation. Garage is fully house wrapped.

Thanks for any feedback.


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[Bill Dufour]

I would add a spoonful of Japan drier to the mix. Of course I have always usd BLO not tung oil. Tung oil may dry faster. You will have to use up the mixture in a week or two as it will harden up in the sealed can if you add drier.
Bill D

[Cameron Wood]

A foam roller might lose bits from the rough surface.
I did a big remodel with exposed trusses from "resawn face" lumber- roughed up on the bandsaw at the lumber yard.
Finished in place with a brush. Surfaces were very rough, wish I had toned them down with a wheel sander as they catch dust & are hard to clean.

[Jack Frederick]

That will look great, but Cameron’s comment on the accumulation of…debris, on a rough surface is right on. Are you goingto prefinish this before mounting? It will help you keep the floors clean. If you set a couple 2x4 rails with a 16p nail driven in every 3” you can finish and then set them in the slot to dry and then take them in to mount.

[Rob Sack]

I still would seal the back side before installation. The exterior of my house is all tongue and groove redwood siding. We finished it with long nap rollers and it worked fine. The suggestion to wheel sand or even pass a DA sander over the outside face is a good one. It will help smooth the surface making finishing easier and as has been suggested earlier, help keep dust and dirt from collecting on the surface. Just a slight "de-burring" should be sufficient to make finishing easier and still keep the aesthetics of the rough sawn look.

[Dave Sabo]

What do you hope to gain by sealing the paneling in the first place ?

[joel cervera]

Thanks for the comments everyone.

I'll try to knock down the surface with a sander before applying the oil. That makes sense.

[joel cervera]

I find the oil's effect on DF's color to be aesthetically pleasing. Compared to unfinished.

Thanks for the comments everyone.

I'll try to knock down the surface with a sander before applying the oil. That makes sense.

[joel cervera]

Yep I plan on finishing before installation. Nice suggestion on their slate for finish/ drying. Thanks.

That will look great, but Cameron’s comment on the accumulation of…debris, on a rough surface is right on. Are you goingto prefinish this before mounting? It will help you keep the floors clean. If you set a couple 2x4 rails with a 16p nail driven in every 3” you can finish and then set them in the slot to dry and then take them in to mount.

[Derek Meyer]

When I worked for my grandpa we painted a lot of T-111 siding with semi-transparent exterior stain. We always used rollers with a 3/4 nap and brushed the grooves first. The large nap helped get the stain into all the crevices in the siding. I would think that roughsawn material would be a lot like T-111.