Storing boards to dry

[Joshua McCormack]

I purchased several rough cut walnut boards 1 in thick by about 12 inches wide and 6-8 ft long at a good price but they are still about 12-15% moisture content. How do I store them to let them dry the rest of the way with minimal warping? How long should it take to get to a usable moisture level?

[Mike Cutler]

Sticker and band them together, setting on a known, "relatively" flat surface, so that air can circulate. Seal the ends with arbor seal, or epoxy, even thick paint will work. If there are any checks, or splits, already started, hammer in some electrical service entry staples across the splits.
if your plan is to use them "air dried", it will take a year or so for them to reach equilibrium throughout the whole board. After that, they will need to reach the equilibrium of the environment they will be used in. I've had some of them in the basement through the last winter to use now for a sewing table. I have a wood stove and dehumidifier in the basement, so the environment, can "dry" them out.

I stickered and banded 1000 bd ft of walnut 8 years ago. These were 2+ inches thick, 12"-22" across and 12 feet long. They're as flat as can be without running them a planer and sander.

[John TenEyck]

If they are now at 12 - 15% MC they would be considered air dried where I live. Regardless, at this point whatever drying defects are in them won't change going down to 6 - 8%, nor will any new defects be added. There's no benefit in sealing the ends; that needs to be done soon after felling to be of benefit. Put them in some location where the relative humidity is 30 - 45% and provide just a little air flow across the stickered wood. After a few weeks the MC will get down to 6 - 8% moisture. Use a moisture meter or weigh specimen to know for sure.

John

[Bill Dufour]

Climate?
Bill D

[Kevin Jenness]

What John said. The stickered material will equilibrate in a matter of weeks to whatever conditions it is in. Monitor the RH and adjust it as necessary.

[Richard Coers]

Your type of question is why location information on you personal information is handy. In most of the United States 12-15% is considered equilibrium moisture level and is usable. To get it lower you will need heat and air movement.

[Jared Sankovich]

Unless you move them Into a kiln, or other climate controlled space, they are fully air dried already at those numbers (unless you live in the desert)

[Bill Dufour]

I have heard 6% is good enough here. Does your attic go over 150 degrees in summer?
Bill D

[Ron Citerone]

My advice to anyone with a spot to store lumber and a few bucks, buy some nice lumber and stack it stickered and let it sit. Eventually you will get to it and not have to worry about the moisture and acclimation game. I know a few bucks and space are not always options, but aside from the moisture issue, you get better deals on lumber when you don’t need it right away.

[John TenEyck]

Your type of question is why location information on you personal information is handy. In most of the United States 12-15% is considered equilibrium moisture level and is usable. To get it lower you will need heat and air movement.

Location is not really of great concern unless you live in the desert SW or PNW. In almost all other locations in the US you want 6 - 8% stock for furniture that will be housed indoors. 12 - 15% is the EMC for lumber air-dried outdoors in much of the country but that's not going to work for furniture that will live indoors. You don't need a drying kiln to get it down to 6 - 8%, but you do need to dry it to that range before using it, hence the discussion.

John