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Thread: Input requested on routers that have greater depth capability

  1. #16
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    I don't have an issue with using a plunger for this application...'actually figured it might be necessary. Triton and Bosch were on my list to check out.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Sounds like a router in the class of the now extinct PC 7518 would be ideal, how about the Trition TFBR001, the specs make it sound like a clone of the 7518. The router has a 3 1/8” range of depth

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    This isn't about depth of actual cut...it's about having enough range to process one side without having to stop to block up the material further. Depth of cut will never be more than about 6mm unless there's an anomaly on the rough slab to cut through.
    I was using the terminology of depth of cut to reference the full up/down range of the plunge rods on my Makita router. I am away from the shop currently, but I can say that I was able to tighten a 4" cutting length spiral bit (1/2" shank) into the collet without it sticking out the bottom of the base and still had enough range to plunge another 2 3/4" deep to max out the plunge rod range. This seems to be the max I have been able to achieve in any router I've used, though I have not used a Festool router and not sure how much plunge range they have in comparison. The overall length of the bit, and where exactly you choose to tighten it in the collet is obviously somewhat of a variable in this equation.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 06-15-2023 at 9:47 AM. Reason: fixed quote tagging
    Still waters run deep.

  4. #19
    The Triton routers do plunge below the base, and you could remove the spindle lock (spring loaded plunger), but then you would have to rig up something to lock the shaft for bit changes.

    I have a Triton and have replaced the bearings twice after lots of inverted panel raising use. I would think that a 2” facemill would similarly tax the spindle bearings.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert LaPlaca View Post
    Sounds like a router in the class of the now extinct PC 7518 would be ideal, how about the Trition TFBR001, the specs make it sound like a clone of the 7518. The router has a 3 1/8” range of depth
    I'll take a look at that one, Robert. Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    I was using the terminology of depth of cut to reference the full up/down range of the plunge rods on my Makita router. I am away from the shop currently, but I can say that I was able to tighten a 4" cutting length spiral bit (1/2" shank) into the collet without it sticking out the bottom of the base and still had enough range to plunge another 2 3/4" deep to max out the plunge rod range. This seems to be the max I have been able to achieve in any router I've used, though I have not used a Festool router and not sure how much plunge range they have in comparison. The overall length of the bit, and where exactly you choose to tighten it in the collet is obviously somewhat of a variable in this equation.
    Which Makita do you have, Phillip?
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I'll take a look at that one, Robert. Thanks.



    Which Makita do you have, Phillip?
    RP2301FC (3 1/4 hp plunge) Mine is ~5 years old at this point and made in Japan. Maybe that model is still MIJ currently? I find it to be very well built and “tight”, though I have not used Festool routers so have no point of comparison to them.
    Last edited by Phillip Mitchell; 06-15-2023 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Typos
    Still waters run deep.

  7. #22
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    I have a Bosch 1611 plunge. It has about 2” from the nut to the base and plunged about 2”
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  8. #23
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    Just thinking out in left field............................................. ..a router lift like JessEm, Kreg, Rockler, ect... should give you all the range you need.

    Problem might be that some aren't easy to control upside down. The Kreg can be adjusted by hand wrong way round and locked/unlocked with a 13mm wrench. I'll bet it possible on some other models too.

    Might need some machining to get it to mount to your jig, but nothing complicated I'm sure.

  9. #24
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    Dave, I would guess that the mechanism for a "router lift", if it could be used upsides down as you mention, could provide a lot of depth throw for sure. The issue with them is that they likely wouldn't fit between the rails on the fixture I own which already has a finely machined aluminum plate with vertical walls that's mounted on machined "bearings" that move along the rails. It would be a very interesting idea for someone making their own setup, however.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Dave, I would guess that the mechanism for a "router lift", if it could be used upsides down as you mention, could provide a lot of depth throw for sure. The issue with them is that they likely wouldn't fit between the rails on the fixture I own which already has a finely machined aluminum plate with vertical walls that's mounted on machined "bearings" that move along the rails. It would be a very interesting idea for someone making their own setup, however.
    The Kreg can def. be used wrong way round.

    I quickly scanned the TT setup and looks to like it’d fit with a few mods. TT already has a router plate ( not sure of dimensions- weren’t listed) . Might have to add a pair of brackets on the perp. axis rail bearing assembly if the lift plate is wider , but should be easy enough. All the big boy router lift plates are finely machined and I’m certain you could drill and tap one accurately enough to affix the TT vertical walls to -just like the TT one. It’s just swapping out one piece of the erector set for another.

    I think a router would be the fastest most elegant solution, but I’m not sure you’ll get the throw you’re looking for from any of the ones the TT plate accepts. Hope one does though as it’d be the fastest/ easiest way for sure. Prob. cheaper too .

  11. #26
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    I have a Dewalt DW621 plunge router and I measure a maximum 2-1/4" plunge depth. The current model Bosch MRP23EVS has a plunge depth of 3". The Festool 0F1400 has 2-3/4" plunge depth. The Makita 3HP RP2301FC has a plunge depth of 2-3/4". The Triton MOF001 has a plunge depth of 2-5/16".

    Dewalt doesn't list this plunge depth, but all those others are published specs. I would say the Bosch is the best result with having the longest plunge depth and is a full 15A motor. It is not that heavy compared to others and it's half as expensive as the Festool. Bosch has been designing really nice tools overall.

  12. #27
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    Thanks Aaron. I'll definitely have to check out that particular Bosch as it also has a very attractive price. The fixed base Triton goes only a hair farther and the D-handle fixed base might make things interesting for mounting. (I had to take apart the DW618 D-handle base to make it work with existing mounting holes on the TT fixture)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Thanks Aaron. I'll definitely have to check out that particular Bosch as it also has a very attractive price. The fixed base Triton goes only a hair farther and the D-handle fixed base might make things interesting for mounting. (I had to take apart the DW618 D-handle base to make it work with existing mounting holes on the TT fixture)
    The same Bosch model I linked to 23 posts ago

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    The same Bosch model I linked to 23 posts ago


    sure, but since you left out the model number and the headline " 3 inch plunge depth" it got lost in the weeds.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    The same Bosch model I linked to 23 posts ago
    Sorry, but the embedded link just didn't show up on my screen with my eyes. I only see it now that you've mentioned it...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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