Best handsaw if you only buy one?

[Derek Cohen]

My favourite dozuki is by Nakaya. Thin plate, rip. Cheap by any standards. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. Superior finish. Not for the inexperienced!

https://www.japanesetools.com.au/pro...-210mm-rip-cut

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tony Wilkins]

The conceit of the OP's question is relevant and helpful, particularly for the beginning woodworker as sawing stock to dimension and joinery are arguably the fundamental tasks underlying all woodworking. Therefore reasonable question is what's the best tool for those jobs. I would argue because sawing is such a fundamental part of woodworking, trying to reduce it to one single tool is impractical and unrealistically limiting. I would argue there are two fundamental sawing tasks; dimensioning stock and joinery and both require very different saws for optimal performance.

To cut to the chase, I started with Japanese pull saws 40 years ago and although I like Dozuki's for joinery in thin stock, when it comes dimensioning rough lumber I've always found Asian saws to be much slower than Western hand saws. I'm sure there are others who disagree who are more capable than me. FWIW, The preindustrial woodworkers saw nest was built on 3 fundamental saws: 7-8 PPI crosscut for breaking down rough lumber, 10 – 12 PPI crosscut for finished dimensioning of pieces and a 5 1/2 PPI ripsaw. In addition, at least two backed saws filed in rip and crosscut were needed for joinery. This is kind of the basic starting point required for most aspects of woodworking. Typically multiple other saws that were optimized for other specific tasks were added to the saw nest as the woodworker skill improved. Maybe the same way many office workers began with Microsoft outlook and word and then progress into Excel and PowerPoint as your skills/job requirements increase.

Okay sorry that's way too much lecturing – my bad! If the question is what's the least you can get away with, my answer is 8 PPI crosscut in the truck for dimensioning rough lumber and a 12 PPI crosscut back saw that arguably could be used for most joinery in a pinch- sawing dovetails, and cheeks and shoulders for M&T's.

This is the kind of philosophical question that wouldn't matter to a preindustrial woodworker, they would never attempt to practice their trade with a single saw. Perhaps modern woodworkers are different. No shade for me – I always appreciate illuminating conversations about how saws, which are fundamental aspect of our craft are best utilized to make the most of our experience.

Cheers, Mike

as far as rough stick, I think the ‘too slow’ comes from the fact that most places only carry* the 240mm models of Ryoba. The sizes tooth geometry generally corresponds to stock size. My 295mm rips through 4/4 quickly and my 180mm (iirc) is delicate enough for fine joinery.

* and thus most people use.